18m.
Between Roaring Silence and Quietly Burning, eliminate but direct line aiming for the bulging prow, that provides a slappy right hand layback toward good flat holds at the 6th bolt, and a sharp spike on the right, before heading up the wee headwall to the 2 glue ins. Powerful sequencey climbing after a thin techy start. Best to walk down west bank from the pink bridge and abseil into the crag from trees, and equip the route on the way down. Clipstick required as the 1st bolt is high to help avoid decay from waterfall spray. The Bendy, Glencoe
Andrew (Andy) Nelson 21/Jul/2020.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| michiarn | 23 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: I hope it's ok if i respectfully express my opinion here. I'm from Switzerland and observing how fast it goes till perfect granit splitters in an alpine environment are fully bolted (that have been originally opened in a ground up trad style), it is a shame to see great existing trad routes are getting affected by bolting here as well. With the tunnel wall and thus great sport climbing so close and that eliminate being so accessible to climb on top rope anyway, I think the bolts should be removed in my humble opinion, as the bolts are in reaching range of roaring silence and seriously affect it. I absolutely love the Scottish Trad and I hope that people can enjoy it for many more decades to come:) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I hope it's ok if i respectfully express my opinion here. I'm from Switzerland and observing how fast it goes till perfect granit splitters in an alpine environment are fully bolted (that have been originally opened in a ground up trad style), it is a shame to see great existing trad routes are getting affected by bolting here as well. With the tunnel wall and thus great sport climbing so close and that eliminate being so accessible to climb on top rope anyway, I think the bolts should be removed in my humble opinion, as the bolts are in reaching range of roaring silence and seriously affect it. I absolutely love the Scottish Trad and I hope that people can enjoy it for many more decades to come:) |
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Route of Interest
Angels with dirty faces
Grade: 7b ***
(Miracle Crag)