190m, 6 pitches. Note: Like all the climbs on the main Bingorm faces, this is a serious route, requiring commitment and experience.
Starts as for Toraigh, at the slab below the the left end of the lower overhangs.
1. 25m 4b. Directly up the slab to 2/3 height, move slightly right, then back left below rowan tree. Up heather moving right to belay at block below corner
2. 25m. Traverse right and slightly down along grassy ledge. Go behind the tree to provide protection. Reach peg belay in small blind recess
3.) 40m 5b/c. Via a small “nose” hold, step up and right from belay to surmount a small overhang. Climb the slab above with poor/limited protection. Surmount a steep heather section to belay below overhang.
4.) 40m 5a. Up the slab left of the belay, cross a heather terrace moving up left to second slab with small wall to left to reach overhang/corner. Rising, poorly protected rightward traverse of “horror” across overhangs to reach a grassy bay, beyond the arete on right
5.) 45m 5b/c. Best pitch of the route (sustained). Traverse back left out of grassy bay to gain the blunt arete. Climb this with care, arranging gear to pass big overhang at its left end. Gain the steep slab/corner above to reach the obvious big flake on left wall. Use this to make a big move up and left to reach the steep slab. Climb this directly until it eases at a shallow bay that provides a poor belay (60m ropes may help).
6.) 15m Finish up easy angled slabs to reach safe ground at large boulder

Abseil descent is potentially possible but the walk off the top, to the right of the crag, down a long ramp to circle back along the northern side of the crag is quite straightforward and takes around 30 mins.

G Williams, C Coles, W Poots 03/Jun/2023.

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