80m, 5 pitches.
This is the easiest way off the platform, though in damp conditions, P1 can be awkward. At low tide and calm conditions, P1 can probably be avoided.
1. 15m 5b As for St Brigid’s Flood.
2. 25m 5a Traverse left and climb down to a lower ledge. Move round the corner and climb to the ledge of
Big Ted. Step right to a hanging slab and belay.
3. 15m 5a Climb suspect blocks and overhung corner to a wide belay.
4. 15m 4c Climb a short overhanging wall, then traverse right to block belays on the front face.
5. 10m 5a The deceptively steep wall to the top
1. 15m 5b As for St Brigid’s Flood.
2. 25m 5a Traverse left and climb down to a lower ledge. Move round the corner and climb to the ledge of
Big Ted. Step right to a hanging slab and belay.
3. 15m 5a Climb suspect blocks and overhung corner to a wide belay.
4. 15m 4c Climb a short overhanging wall, then traverse right to block belays on the front face.
5. 10m 5a The deceptively steep wall to the top
C.Jackson, P.Hully, J.Fleming 30/May/1995.
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Route of Interest
STINKY PHOO
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dunshean Head)