45m, 2 pitches.
Some 25m right of Brendan, a wide crack cuts the lower overhanging wall.
1. 20m. 5a Climb the wide crack by its right arete until possible to enter it. Move up and right to a good
ledge.
2. 25m. 5c Climb the corner above the stance to a ledge on the left. Follow a crack round a small roof to
where it disappears (good wire). Traverse right past a wider crack to a ledge on the nose of the buttress and
finish direct
1. 20m. 5a Climb the wide crack by its right arete until possible to enter it. Move up and right to a good
ledge.
2. 25m. 5c Climb the corner above the stance to a ledge on the left. Follow a crack round a small roof to
where it disappears (good wire). Traverse right past a wider crack to a ledge on the nose of the buttress and
finish direct
C.Jackson, J.Fleming 27/May/1994.
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Route of Interest
Heartbeat City
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Dunshean Head)