Start sitting under crack direct with a good left hand side pull jug. Move rightwards to the jug shield and go direct up via crimps to reach the sloping shelf on spring chicken. Move up and left to the pocket on crack superdirect and finish up this.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ben Wilson | 25 Sep, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: The original on the rebound went direct up from the jug shield via crimps to the spring chicken sloping shelf (see photo), and finishing left to join the pocket on crack superdirect this is V7. Some mistakes in guides have shown on the rebound as going up and left from sitting to the start of crack direct, this is the Crack direct sit start (V6) and worth doing but is not on the rebound. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The original on the rebound went direct up from the jug shield via crimps to the spring chicken sloping shelf (see photo), and finishing left to join the pocket on crack superdirect this is V7. Some mistakes in guides have shown on the rebound as going up and left from sitting to the start of crack direct, this is the Crack direct sit start (V6) and worth doing but is not on the rebound. |
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Route of Interest
Impailed
Grade: f7A+ ***
(Dove Crag (Dovedale))