Massive dark and sun starved this crag comes into its own in winter but its low altitude means good conditions are rare. Great Central Groove is one of the classic grade V routes in Scotland. In summer the E6 classic Edge of Extinction is definitely worth 3-stars.
Online guide at www.scottishclimbs.com
Park at the layby 258042 and cross the road at a bridge over the river and ascend via a track. Go right at a hairpin and cross a burn to a corrie on the left. Follow a path on the left side of the burn. Takes about 1 hour.