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Covid-19

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving.

Please proceed with caution though. More details.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 84
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 23m a.s.l
Faces S

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The classic Bluebell Traverse © craig h

Crag features

Traditionally gritty and urban, full of graffiti and attitude, the Breck has been cleaned up by volunteers around 2017-18. Less litter and graffiti, more love. The site is now an award-winning park and genuinely pleasant to loiter in. A new Alan Rouse memorial garden and plaque were unveiled at the entrance in June 2018.

The obvious feature to aim for is the Granny Rock, an isolated pinnacle with an easy front and somewhat harder back side. Grades vary from VB to V10. Some excellent traverses and eliminates, the steeper side is now cleaned of graffiti as of 2017. There is, occasionally, broken glass at the bottom of the routes and this is periodically swept away by locals, however.
Opposite the Granny is the Blubell Wall; this is the principal bouldering area. Although the wall seeps in places the climbing is superbly technical, extremely fingery, and not forgiving. Non-eliminates range from V0 to V7, whilst the Bluebell traverse is a must-do incredibly recalcitrant English 5C/6A though there may be a couple of 6B moves.
Facing Bluebell wall and going right through the trees, an easier square shaped slabby wall emerges. This is the Who wall (aka Eagle Rock). Here, slabbier problems/routes are the order of the day, and are juggy in comparison to the rest.
Down and right is the OverHanging Wall. Unfortunately, the first 6 feet of OH Wall were covered with slippery brown paint in 2017 by well-meaning volunteers in order to cover graffiti. This has reduced the friction greatly on affected holds. The wall has old bolts set at the top for toproping; the problems/routes here are excellent, high and well worth the trouble, being of an extremely hard nature. The grades range from english 5c to Font 7C+.

Regular use will give you steel fingers and make you as strong as an ox.
If it was good enough for Al Rouse.......

(There are some new drilled/chipped pockets on Grannys rock on the Positron traverse. They are numerous, obvious and deep. Please avoid.)

Unfortunatly new grafitti has been added to Granny Rock. Sept 2019.

Approach notes

Come off the M53 at the dock exit Turn left at the roundabout then left at the lights onto Breck road. Past the school on the left and park up near the Ship Inn Public house. The quarry is accessed by a concrete staircase sloping right at the side of the pub RH as you face it, past a memorial blue plaque to Alan Rouse.

Eagle Rock (The Who Wall to anyone that actually goes the breck..) has been covered in silver spraypaint at some point over the past couple weeks. Not sure how it will effect the climbing but a great deal of the holds have been hit by this.
ex0 - 15/Jul/13
Actually fell in love with this place thismornin, wish i had started goin along time ago
phil_freeman - 06/Mar/10
There is now a Facebook group for those who use it. http://www.facebook.com/#!/group.php?gid=20733733642&ref=ts
Wile E. Coyote - 01/Mar/10
is there any online topos of the venue or any guide books with it in..
phil_freeman - 24/Feb/10
Would it be at all possible for anyone who wishes to make comments about the urbanity of this (or any other venue) to read the comments below, and realise that, yes, we know! Thank you! We've done that. Now, perhaps we can talk about the climbing...
Dnmn - 10/May/09
Iím climbing there very frequently now. My fingertips were going red going on purple after my last session! Great place and great for finger workouts. Just take a mat as itís mainly highballing.
gary.barr - 28/May/08
i have been meaning to get over here and check it out, seeing as i live in Eastham, but then there is irby aswell so save the gear gettin robbed and a wee hospital trip and head over to irby. if it was more closer like in bromborough or somet, then i would make the most off it!
phil_freeman - 14/Dec/07
this is where i spent my miss guided childhood bunking off from mosslands school just down the roads. after 4 years of going every dinner time and weekends, when i left and joined the navy i ended up getting into the portsmouth climbing team and was very well regarded. for me, this is such a great place to get to the roots of climbing. stamina and technique learnt the old fashion way without gadgets, just some old fashion finger bashin'! i have been out of it for a few years now(the beer demon came and took me) and i am starting at the roots again now im out of the forces. like the guide book say, its a fiver in a pile of crap....
rudeymike - 19/Jul/07
Because, Gregm, it's a great place to go in the evening, can be part of an overall training program with Frodsham and Pex, doesn't involve miles of unnecessary driving if you're local, is free, and is outside. But of course, if you're scared of a few kids...
duncanmartin - 25/May/07
Dive, why bother?
Craigm411 - 26/Mar/07
I learnt to climb here in the 60's along with a lad who lived down the road from me, went by the name of Al Rouse, he showed a bit of potential even tho he was a couple of years younger than me. We used to wear pumps that we wore for gym at school. Very happy days, it's sad to hear of the grafitti and glass, will go back and have a look next time I am in Wallasey seeing my Mum.
Scally - 28/Nov/06
my local crag, it turns out- just stuck a sodding great piece of glass in my finger when i grabbed a hold- toothbrush reccommended...
greggle - 01/Aug/06
i couldnt agree more with the comment about glass and dog muck also i wouldnt reccomend being there in the dark unless u take a bat as there is loads of gangs hanging around who frighten the life outta most people.
dominic heaney - 31/Dec/05
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Climbs at this crag

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