At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving.
Please proceed with caution though. More details.
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 23m a.s.l
The classic Bluebell Traverse © craig h
Traditionally gritty and urban, full of graffiti and attitude, the Breck has been cleaned up by volunteers around 2017-18. Less litter and graffiti, more love. The site is now an award-winning park and genuinely pleasant to loiter in. A new Alan Rouse memorial garden and plaque were unveiled at the entrance in June 2018.
The obvious feature to aim for is the Granny Rock, an isolated pinnacle with an easy front and somewhat harder back side. Grades vary from VB to V10. Some excellent traverses and eliminates, the steeper side is now cleaned of graffiti as of 2017. There is, occasionally, broken glass at the bottom of the routes and this is periodically swept away by locals, however.
Opposite the Granny is the Blubell Wall; this is the principal bouldering area. Although the wall seeps in places the climbing is superbly technical, extremely fingery, and not forgiving. Non-eliminates range from V0 to V7, whilst the Bluebell traverse is a must-do incredibly recalcitrant English 5C/6A though there may be a couple of 6B moves.
Facing Bluebell wall and going right through the trees, an easier square shaped slabby wall emerges. This is the Who wall (aka Eagle Rock). Here, slabbier problems/routes are the order of the day, and are juggy in comparison to the rest.
Down and right is the OverHanging Wall. Unfortunately, the first 6 feet of OH Wall were covered with slippery brown paint in 2017 by well-meaning volunteers in order to cover graffiti. This has reduced the friction greatly on affected holds. The wall has old bolts set at the top for toproping; the problems/routes here are excellent, high and well worth the trouble, being of an extremely hard nature. The grades range from english 5c to Font 7C+.
Regular use will give you steel fingers and make you as strong as an ox.
If it was good enough for Al Rouse.......
(There are some new drilled/chipped pockets on Grannys rock on the Positron traverse. They are numerous, obvious and deep. Please avoid.)
Unfortunatly new grafitti has been added to Granny Rock. Sept 2019.
Come off the M53 at the dock exit Turn left at the roundabout then left at the lights onto Breck road. Past the school on the left and park up near the Ship Inn Public house. The quarry is accessed by a concrete staircase sloping right at the side of the pub RH as you face it, past a memorial blue plaque to Alan Rouse.
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