Climbs 92
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 23m a.s.l
Faces all
Russ on Positron Traverse, Granny Rock, The Breck © Si Witcher
Crag features
Traditionally gritty and urban, full of graffiti and attitude, the Breck has been cleaned up by volunteers around 2017-18. Less litter and graffiti, more love. The site is now an award-winning park and genuinely pleasant to loiter in. A new Alan Rouse memorial garden and plaque were unveiled at the entrance in June 2018.
Granny Rock: The obvious feature to aim for is the Granny Rock, an isolated pinnacle with an easy front and somewhat harder back side. Grades vary from VB to V10. Some excellent traverses and eliminates.
Bluebell Wall: Opposite the Granny Rock is the Bluebell Wall. Although the wall seeps in places the climbing is superbly technical, extremely fingery, and not forgiving. Non-eliminates range from V0 to V7, whilst the Bluebell traverse is a must-do incredibly recalcitrant British tech 5c/6a though there may be a couple of 6b moves.
Who Wall: Facing Bluebell wall and going right through the trees, an easier square shaped slabby wall emerges. This is the Who wall (aka Eagle Rock). Here, slabbier problems/routes are the order of the day, and are juggy in comparison to the rest.
Overhanging Wall: Down and right is the impressive OverHanging Wall.The wall has old bolts set at the top for toproping; the problems/routes here are excellent, high and well worth the trouble, being of an extremely hard nature. The grades range from British tech 5c to V10. The first 6 feet of OH Wall were covered with slippery brown paint in 2017 by well-meaning volunteers in order to cover graffiti. In June 2020 the paint and graffiti were sand-blasted off.
Regular use will give you steel fingers and make you as strong as an ox.
If it was good enough for Al Rouse.......
(There are some new drilled/chipped pockets on Granny Rock on the Positron traverse. They are numerous, obvious and deep. Please avoid.)
Approach notes
Come off the M53 at the dock exit. Turn left at the roundabout then left at the lights onto Breck road. Past the school on the left and park up opposite Westbourne road. (2021: The Ship Inn, former post-crag pub is now demolished). The quarry is accessed by a concrete staircase sloping right at the side of the pub RH as you face it, past a memorial blue plaque to Alan Rouse.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
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These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers ex0 and Si Witcher