5 pitches.
P1: 5.9, 50m. Start well right of the main corner, and follow broken cracks up through a tricky wide section. Keep following cracks until you can make an easy traverse left along a ledge system back to a belay in the main corner.
P2: 5.10a, 35m. Climb the main corner (easy fifth) for about 25-30m to a point where the corner gets steeper and the cracks get flaring. Plug in whatever gear you can find and traverse left and up to a short crack that leads to a belay at the base of the first smaller paddle flake. I thought this pitch was pretty spicy, as the crux was the rising traverse out of the corner and the fall would have been a bit ugly.
P3: 5.10b, 15m. Climb the finger and hand crack in the corner of the right side of the small paddle flake to a two bolt belay at its top. Alternatively, climb the squeeze chimney on the left side of the flake.
P4: 5.10b, 35m. Climb the hand crack on the left of the larger paddle flake past many good rests. A steep section at the top leads through a bulge to a stance and a gear belay. Awesome!
P5: 5.10b, 55m. Climb up from the belay using parallel cracks (finger crack on the right) for 5m. then there are a number of options to the top. from chimneys to finger cracks.
P2: 5.10a, 35m. Climb the main corner (easy fifth) for about 25-30m to a point where the corner gets steeper and the cracks get flaring. Plug in whatever gear you can find and traverse left and up to a short crack that leads to a belay at the base of the first smaller paddle flake. I thought this pitch was pretty spicy, as the crux was the rising traverse out of the corner and the fall would have been a bit ugly.
P3: 5.10b, 15m. Climb the finger and hand crack in the corner of the right side of the small paddle flake to a two bolt belay at its top. Alternatively, climb the squeeze chimney on the left side of the flake.
P4: 5.10b, 35m. Climb the hand crack on the left of the larger paddle flake past many good rests. A steep section at the top leads through a bulge to a stance and a gear belay. Awesome!
P5: 5.10b, 55m. Climb up from the belay using parallel cracks (finger crack on the right) for 5m. then there are a number of options to the top. from chimneys to finger cracks.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Evieosborn | 20 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: This is the description and grading for ‘paddle flake’ not ‘paddle flake direct’ (10.c). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This is the description and grading for ‘paddle flake’ not ‘paddle flake direct’ (10.c). |
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