UKC

Climbs 107
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

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Nick Gillet on Wishful Thinking © henry castle

Crag features

This prominent headland has a series of fine routes on very compact grey rock. For years it has had a well-deserved reputation for desperate hard routes. Even the regrading of most of the old E3s up to E4s in 1995 didn't do much to change this fact!

As with most headlands which project out into the sea, this one can be windy and cold. Avoid it in rough seas. Contrary to the impression given in the old guide, The Castle is affected by tides.

Deep Water Solos - Most recently, the East Face has seen many of its routes ascended in DWS style, as a big tide will bring the security of deep water below many of the routes - the cruxes can be as low as 6m above the ocean. 

Approach notes

Approach from St. Govan's in 20 mins.

Restricted Access

Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all of the East Blowhole. (Routes; 'The Crystal Ozone', to 'Chiaroscuro' ). The West, South and East Faces are not affected by this restriction.

The route "White Knight" on the Landward face is restricted due to nesting Choughs.  

 

 

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