UKC

Climbs 64
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Fairyhole Traverse - E2 © Doug's camera - unknown

Crag features

Large chunks of cliff descending towards the sea, leaving huge chasms to swallow the unwary.

Park at the end of the single track road that goes through Cregneash village. Follow the path alongside the wall, ignoring any paths heading off the the old cafe, to the bottom corner where there is a stile. Cross this, head towards the sea for a few metres, then cross back over the stone wall using the obvious gap. A thin path leads down to the hut circle on top of Hut Circle Buttress.

Descending the gully past a steep wall with obvious crack (Torque Test Wall) leads to Tower Slabs and round to Tower Buttress. Many of the old routes further round from here have been affected by rock fall. Following the top edge of the cliffs forms the Western section, with the square overhanging nose split by a central fist crack being Gulgond. The tall cliffs on the way to the Sugarloaf stack are Xanadu Wall.

The only published information is www.mike-caine.com/climbing/chasms.html which is now very out-of-date (plus the site is often down so use google cache if necessary). Many extreme routes have been put up by Doug Hall which are not recorded.

Approach notes

Bird ban. Usually runs from 15th March until the end of June for most of the area. However the Sugarloaf and surrounding areas are banned until the end of July. Occasionally the restriction is extended due to late nesting. In these cases it will be indicated by signs on the crag approach.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

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Climbs at this crag

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