19m, 2 pitches.
To find the route: In the chasm left of Army Route, climb the southern wall past two horizontal cracks (with the chasm gaping beneath you) to a large ledge. Drop down the opposite side of the ledge then walk up the slope to an obvious corner with a crack in the back and a large ledge at half-height up the face. The route is described in two pitches but they could be linked easily enough.
Pitch one (5a): Layback/Jam up the crack in the corner finished with a grovelly grove to arrive on the large ledge. Possible belay. (13m).
Pitch two (5c): Take the curving crack in the wall to the right of the corner. Described as 'alarmingly steep' in the old guide which is an accurate description. Pumpy but with good holds to finish. Hard at E1! (6m).
Pitch one (5a): Layback/Jam up the crack in the corner finished with a grovelly grove to arrive on the large ledge. Possible belay. (13m).
Pitch two (5c): Take the curving crack in the wall to the right of the corner. Described as 'alarmingly steep' in the old guide which is an accurate description. Pumpy but with good holds to finish. Hard at E1! (6m).
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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