Rockfax Description
As for Thanks for the Cash, then traverse the lip and up. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Cuttings Ticklist , Portland , Portland - The Boulders , Lou's 7a's of Portland 2024 , Portland Bouldering for Shorties
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cvanc | 10 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: The jug is dead, but you don’t need it. Come lunging straight out with your right (I’m 5’6”) and claw onto the face to the left of where it was. Ignore the pain. It’s fine, and the spikes and crystals in your skin mean you’re not going anywhere. Well. Not all of you is anyway. A small percentage will still be there, right where you left it for the next go if you do happen to come off. Left hand comes out to join you, then right hand to the right side of the pinch. Left hand back down to one of the undercling holes (the left one closest to the lip is better), right foot up to bicycle while your left foot gently un-cams and then sweeps out into a heel on the face. Left hand releases, then goes into the left side of the pinch. Then the climb goes as normal as per body type etc. I’m a sport climber, and a bad one at that, so I like to dangle around like a Christmas ornament and use lots of the horribly sharp intermediate holds before finally mantling like a half chewed walrus. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The jug is dead, but you don’t need it. Come lunging straight out with your right (I’m 5’6”) and claw onto the face to the left of where it was. Ignore the pain. It’s fine, and the spikes and crystals in your skin mean you’re not going anywhere. Well. Not all of you is anyway. A small percentage will still be there, right where you left it for the next go if you do happen to come off. Left hand comes out to join you, then right hand to the right side of the pinch. Left hand back down to one of the undercling holes (the left one closest to the lip is better), right foot up to bicycle while your left foot gently un-cams and then sweeps out into a heel on the face. Left hand releases, then goes into the left side of the pinch. Then the climb goes as normal as per body type etc. I’m a sport climber, and a bad one at that, so I like to dangle around like a Christmas ornament and use lots of the horribly sharp intermediate holds before finally mantling like a half chewed walrus. |
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| Cvanc | 10 Feb |
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βeta: The jug is officially broken. Sent without it just fine though. It is slightly harder now I think. Maybe it’s finally a more solid 7a? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The jug is officially broken. Sent without it just fine though. It is slightly harder now I think. Maybe it’s finally a more solid 7a? |
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| BurdetJ | 25 Jul, 2024 |
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βeta: The jug at the lip is a bit loose, worth being careful about this! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The jug at the lip is a bit loose, worth being careful about this! |
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| Jakebirdy | 3 Jun, 2024 |
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βeta: Questionable grade | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Questionable grade |
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| P Natl | 9 Mar, 2024 |
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βeta: Key jug on the lip very wobbly. If you break this please get in touch with me or another local so we can look at glueing it back? | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Key jug on the lip very wobbly. If you break this please get in touch with me or another local so we can look at glueing it back? |
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| jackpenn | 18 Dec, 2023 |
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βeta: Jug on the lip is quite wobbly | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Jug on the lip is quite wobbly |
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| Cris Fontano | 23 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Hard to not dab | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Hard to not dab |
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| samparsons | 8 Nov, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Beta Video https://youtu.be/EKsiwjEgKr4 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Beta Video https://youtu.be/EKsiwjEgKr4 |
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Logged Ascents
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Route of Interest
Where Angels Dare to Tread
Grade: f7A ***
(Blacknor Beach)