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Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax.

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Rockfax Description
The centre of the roof starting near the back from an undercut and a pocket-pinch. Gain jugs on the lip and turn the roof leftward via a high, flat hold. © Rockfax

FA. Ben Stokes 2001

Ticklists

Dorset Bouldering Top 50, RCCR, Cuttings Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
daveshirman 5 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure what Ben was on about with the starting holds - but there are two holds next to each other, near the back of the roof. A left hand slot - that you can hold backwards (palm turned towards you), then using your thumb to make it a pinch. A right hand pinch. There is a pocket big enough for a few fingers nearer the lip that I would say don't start with as it takes out the first hard move, i.e. getting off the floor and into that hold+positon.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure what Ben was on about with the starting holds - but there are two holds next to each other, near the back of the roof. A left hand slot - that you can hold backwards (palm turned towards you), then using your thumb to make it a pinch. A right hand pinch. There is a pocket big enough for a few fingers nearer the lip that I would say don't start with as it takes out the first hard move, i.e. getting off the floor and into that hold+positon.
Ben Stokes 30 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The pocket/pinch comes from placing your left thumb in a pocket - not much bigger for anything else - and your fingers forming the pinch. If I remember correctly the pocket pinch is about 30cm in the direction of the lip from the undercut.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The pocket/pinch comes from placing your left thumb in a pocket - not much bigger for anything else - and your fingers forming the pinch. If I remember correctly the pocket pinch is about 30cm in the direction of the lip from the undercut.
Dan Savory 28 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Any advice on the start? Is the pocket pinch just left of the undercut or is it the good pocket further out towards the lip?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Any advice on the start? Is the pocket pinch just left of the undercut or is it the good pocket further out towards the lip?
Ben Stokes 21 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Try going feet first, it's easier - honest!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Try going feet first, it's easier - honest!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Josephtheboy 14 Mar - went from undercut and weird pinch thing at the back of the roof and crossed through to the three finger pocket using a high heel, really cool move
went from undercut and weird pinch thing at the back of the roof and crossed through to the three finger pocket using a high heel, really cool move
BeastintheWest 25 Jan Sent β
with Reece Wotton
with Reece Wotton
Hidden 12 Jan Sent
AaronBosley 4 Jan Sent β Had already done the stand and moves under the lip on a different route.
with LukeWS
Had already done the stand and moves under the lip on a different route.
with LukeWS
Jonathan_Horton 19 May, 2019 Sent
daveshirman 4 May, 2019 Sent
Hidden ? Dec, 2018 Sent O/S
AJM 17 Nov, 2018 Sent dnf
dripdry1 16 Jul, 2018 Sent x Really nice problem! Used some interesting beta to get through the roof, then a crimpy battle up the main face !
with Chloe Diggle
Really nice problem! Used some interesting beta to get through the roof, then a crimpy battle up the main face !
with Chloe Diggle
jh305 17 Jun, 2018 Sent x
Luke Dawson 7 Jan, 2018 Sent β
with Louis Jones, PeterDawson
with Louis Jones, PeterDawson
Alex N-R 18 Dec, 2017 Sent x
MalcolmJack 16 Oct, 2017 Sent dnf Managed overlapping halves, but ran out of steam by the time I'd dialled my sequence. Keen to come back fresh!
Managed overlapping halves, but ran out of steam by the time I'd dialled my sequence. Keen to come back fresh!
JKinsella 13 Jun, 2017 Sent x Reasonably straightforward if you aren't a cretin, which I am.
Reasonably straightforward if you aren't a cretin, which I am.
Ally Smith 9 Aug, 2015 Sent dnf Oh sh!t - my shoulder made such a bad noise....
Oh sh!t - my shoulder made such a bad noise....
Hidden 15 Jul, 2015 Sent O/S
PeterDawson 17 Feb, 2015 Sent β
fletcherlu ??, 2015 -
edmillsdilkes 26 Oct, 2014 Sent
with Ross Gray
with Ross Gray
James.Burnett 5 Oct, 2014 Sent x
Rupey 28 Sep, 2014 Sent x
Hidden 28 Jul, 2014 Sent x
EdGS 12 Jul, 2014 Sent x Found the heel very hard to get right.
Found the heel very hard to get right.
DaveX 1 Jun, 2014 Sent x
KDhruev 2 May, 2014 Sent x
Hidden 11 Jan, 2014 Sent x
ReeceWotton ? Nov, 2013 Sent x
Hidden 27 Apr, 2013 Sent x
Hidden 29 Mar, 2013 Sent x
gordy767 3 Mar, 2013 Sent
Hidden 3 Mar, 2013 Sent x
Dan 85 3 Mar, 2013 Sent x
Alex Mason 6 Apr, 2012 Sent O/S The V2 part felt like the hardest bit.
with Laura Perry
The V2 part felt like the hardest bit.
with Laura Perry
tom106 26 Feb, 2012 Sent x
rubben 28 Jan, 2012 Sent O/S Awesome, one hard pull, then great holds...used 3 finger pocket. Soft
with Danny Haynes
Awesome, one hard pull, then great holds...used 3 finger pocket. Soft
with Danny Haynes
Tophe 27 Jan, 2012 Sent x
owb106 27 Jan, 2012 Sent dnf
stvredmond 21 Jan, 2012 Sent
MarkRyder 10 Jan, 2012 Sent x
Hidden 17 Oct, 2011 -
bubblewrap ? May, 2011 Sent x
with Ian H, jez s, AlexM
with Ian H, jez s, AlexM
JasonA 8 Apr, 2011 Sent x
Hidden ? Mar, 2011 -
robertmortonlloyd 29 Jan, 2011 Sent x
Hidden 26 Jan, 2011 Sent dnf
Hidden ??, 2011 Sent x
archiecb 30 Oct, 2010 Sent x
PeterJuggler 9 Oct, 2010 Sent x
Rhys Jones 25 Sep, 2010 Sent
brices 28 Aug, 2010 Sent x hard but found a good knee bar easy after that
hard but found a good knee bar easy after that
sam_cox 17 Jun, 2010 Sent
Hidden 17 Apr, 2010 Sent x
Hidden 13 Mar, 2010 Sent x
theellis ? Mar, 2010 Sent
Hidden 21 Apr, 2009 Sent O/S
Richard Hession 22 Feb, 2009 Sent β Dry roof, crushed.
Dry roof, crushed.
matt green(uni) ? Feb, 2009 Sent x
dmoir 8 Jan, 2009 Sent
Hidden 30 Jul, 2008 Sent β
JPGR 27 Jan, 2007 Sent
bigie bob 2 Jan, 2007 Sent
Hidden ??, 2007 -
feeko 25 Feb, 2006 Sent
skimble ??, 2006 Sent
Hidden ? Feb, 2001 Sent
15 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Flake

Grade: f7A ***
(Battleship Beach)