UKC Logbook - 'Dragon Song'

30m. Good diagonal line across the wall. Peg snapped in a short fall, route is now pushing E4 as alternate protection is small and fiddly and the ground is close beneath on the crux. The original joins The Dangler. The variation finish is more satisfying, for the competent; but pushes the route to the upper end of its grade. Start below a small roof.
1) 6a. Move round the corner, and up a small groove; hard moves gain a traverse
line. Go right, (micro-cams far right) and make a very hard move up, to gain holds above.
Move right, to another overhang. A hard move gains the V groove on the right.
Climb up the groove, past yet another roof, to gain a ramp. Finish up the slab.
Ledge and tree belay. Walk off right.

1979.

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User	Date		Notes
pete osullivan	17 May	Show βeta βeta: Where the peg used to be just before the crux there is a bomber medium sized wire in the horizontal break. If you slide it along from right to left it is brilliant and is far safer than the peg ever was	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Where the peg used to be just before the crux there is a bomber medium sized wire in the horizontal break. If you slide it along from right to left it is brilliant and is far safer than the peg ever was
Dexter JW	7 Jun, 2023	Show βeta βeta: There is another old peg remaining a few meters above the crux - this should not to be trusted and plenty of other gear is available.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: There is another old peg remaining a few meters above the crux - this should not to be trusted and plenty of other gear is available.