UKC

14m. 5b. Strenuous, from midway up Vineyards third pitch climb the RIGHT-hand end of the steep wall on large holds. Finish (crux) with a sense of urgency. This route was a popular HVS, until a key thread runner disappeared. It is still possible to drape a thin sling over a large hold near the top.
New CC guidebook mixes up the line with its harder neighbour.

Ticklists

Dartmoor Stars: Diff - HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jamesvickery19 29 Nov, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: lost nut on belay before hard move up. Would greatly appreciate getting it back if possible.
βeta?
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βeta: lost nut on belay before hard move up. Would greatly appreciate getting it back if possible.
Dale Turrell 24 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: It seems the CC Dartmoor guide's topo has this and Pinkspots Headache the wrong way around.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It seems the CC Dartmoor guide's topo has this and Pinkspots Headache the wrong way around.
Cbulman 23 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Save large cams for the top or things get committing
Show beta
βeta: Save large cams for the top or things get committing

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Guidebooks for The Dewerstone

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 13
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Spider

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)

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