UKC

Restricted Access

The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
14m. 5b. Strenuous, from midway up Vineyards third pitch climb the RIGHT-hand end of the steep wall on large holds. Finish (crux) with a sense of urgency. This route was a popular HVS, until a key thread runner disappeared. It is still possible to drape a thin sling over a large hold near the top.
New CC guidebook mixes up the line with its harder neighbour.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dale Turrell 24 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: It seems the CC Dartmoor guide's topo has this and Pinkspots Headache the wrong way around.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It seems the CC Dartmoor guide's topo has this and Pinkspots Headache the wrong way around.
Cbulman 23 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Save large cams for the top or things get committing
Show beta
βeta: Save large cams for the top or things get committing

Logged Ascents

85 users have logged this

Guidebooks for The Dewerstone

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 14 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 11
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Scimitar Direct

Grade: E1 5b ***
(The Dewerstone)

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