Restricted Access
The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
30m, 2 pitches.
Climbs the clean wall left of Yogi to join it on the final few feet. Start on the easy access ramp at the beginning of Yogi by 2 leftward leaning cracks.
1)5a. Step left and climb the cracks, to just below the spike of Yogi. Move left alnd climb the wall to a break, traversing leftwards to a sentry box. Climb up through this, and follow a crack to an overhanging corner (rusty peg and nut belay).
2)5b+ Climb leftwards, along a break. A hard move enables you to stand on a flake and reach up to small finger holds on the wall. Climb boldly up and right to join the final wide crack of Yogi. Finish up crack.
1)5a. Step left and climb the cracks, to just below the spike of Yogi. Move left alnd climb the wall to a break, traversing leftwards to a sentry box. Climb up through this, and follow a crack to an overhanging corner (rusty peg and nut belay).
2)5b+ Climb leftwards, along a break. A hard move enables you to stand on a flake and reach up to small finger holds on the wall. Climb boldly up and right to join the final wide crack of Yogi. Finish up crack.
T Dennell, P Birchell 21/Oct/1993.
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Route of Interest
Scimitar Direct
Grade: E1 5b ***
(The Dewerstone)