Restricted Access
The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
45m, 2 pitches.
An improved direct version of the original route to give a sustained climb of great character and an airy climax. It has 4 metres of new climbing on the arete. Top end E3.
P1 5c. Climb CCSD and step left onto the tree on CC Direct. Make tenuous moves up the arete ending at good holds and a small wire on the microgranite band. Further gear can be arranged in Gideon. Bear R to top out on the huge bollard.
P2 5b. Climb the wall right of the chimney of CCD. Near the top use the RH arête to make a reachy move onto the final headwall in a magnificent position.
P1 5c. Climb CCSD and step left onto the tree on CC Direct. Make tenuous moves up the arete ending at good holds and a small wire on the microgranite band. Further gear can be arranged in Gideon. Bear R to top out on the huge bollard.
P2 5b. Climb the wall right of the chimney of CCD. Near the top use the RH arête to make a reachy move onto the final headwall in a magnificent position.
Pete Saunders 06/Jun/2011.
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Route of Interest
Rampart
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Lundy)