Climbs 67
Rocktype Slate
Faces all
The Wall Within © mark reeves
Approach notes
Various approaches: For the Khyber Pass go up the long incline beyond Twll Mawr until one level above the winding house. Go L to the edge of the level and drop down scree by a pipe past a dry stone tower then descend ladders. The Khyber Pass is between Twll Mawr and Mordor. For Mordor Mid level continue down further ladders from the Khyber Pass. For Mordor Bottom Level traverse the mid level anti-clockwise almost as far as possible and go down more (shakier) ladders. For the bottom part of Lost World go through a tunnel from about half way round the Mordor mid height level (just after the Tick's Groove Rockfall debris). Heaven Walls are best approached from the other side. Go up the incline to the left of Yellow Wall (above Serengeti), continue past a ruined building then drop down slightly to a broad cutting. Follow this rightwards to an ab point where it overlooks Lost World. Ab or scramble down one level. To reach The Cutting or The Balcony from Heaven Walls go back through the Heaven Walls access cutting from the ab point until a track on the R leads up scree to reach the level above near the entrance of The Cutting. The Balcony is just a little further on overlooking Lost World. To reach The Balcony or Cutting from Bus Stop Car Park follow the G'Day Arete approach to the level then go R a short way to join the last few metres of the previous approach.
Access Advice
Please be aware the quarries suffers from rock falls on a regular basis, please don't take any assumptions that the rock is stable or a route is in the same condition as stated in any guide books.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds in Sinc California (Twll Mawr), please avoid the routes in the back left corner, from Opening Gambit to Long in the Twll/The north will rise again.
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Climbs at this crag
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