Climbs 67
Rocktype Slate
Faces all
The Wall Within © mark reeves
Approach notes
Various approaches: For the Khyber Pass go up the long incline beyond Twll Mawr until one level above the winding house. Go L to the edge of the level and drop down scree by a pipe past a dry stone tower then descend ladders. The Khyber Pass is between Twll Mawr and Mordor. For Mordor Mid level continue down further ladders from the Khyber Pass. For Mordor Bottom Level traverse the mid level anti-clockwise almost as far as possible and go down more (shakier) ladders. For the bottom part of Lost World go through a tunnel from about half way round the Mordor mid height level (just after the Tick's Groove Rockfall debris). Heaven Walls are best approached from the other side. Go up the incline to the left of Yellow Wall (above Serengeti), continue past a ruined building then drop down slightly to a broad cutting. Follow this rightwards to an ab point where it overlooks Lost World. Ab or scramble down one level. To reach The Cutting or The Balcony from Heaven Walls go back through the Heaven Walls access cutting from the ab point until a track on the R leads up scree to reach the level above near the entrance of The Cutting. The Balcony is just a little further on overlooking Lost World. To reach The Balcony or Cutting from Bus Stop Car Park follow the G'Day Arete approach to the level then go R a short way to join the last few metres of the previous approach.
No Access Issues
July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
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Climbs at this crag
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