The Lost World/Heaven Walls

Search across the entire UKC database for Routes or Crags.
Your query will be matched against the following:

Name of Route/Crags
Name of Crags (for routes)
Name of Buttress (for routes)
Country
Rock Type eg. granite, gritstorne, sandstone etc
Route Type eg. trad, sport, winter etc
Description
Grade i.e. HVS, V3, IV etc
Tech Grade
First Ascent

E.g. Froggatt HVS-E1 ** Grit

Exact Phrases

Surround multiple words with double quotes to require a match on that phrase, eg "bat route" malham

Route-star ranges

Asterisks get special treatment in search queries. A sequence of them is considered to be a star rating for a route, so * is treated as 1-star, ** treated as 2-stars and *** treated as 3-stars. Typing just one sequence creates a search where the route is required to have at least that many stars, eg bat route ** will only return routes with 2 or more stars that also match the other search criteria bat and route.
Adding a dash and a second star sequence will create a range, eg *-** means "match routes with at least one and at most two stars".

Grade ranges

As above with stars, but with grades. Eg vs-e1 will match routes with a grade of either VS, HVS or E1.

Date ranges (only years)

Date ranges will check against the first-ascent date field and require the route to have been put up between the start date and the end date (inclusive). Eg 1970-1974 will match routes put up between 01-01-1970 and 31-12-1974. You should note that not all routes have had the first ascent date filled in, and these routes will be excluded from any search that includes date ranges, so you might not get the results you expect.

Difficulty for grade

We've calculated a value based on the grade voting system that assigns a route a value from one of:

soft
benchmark
hard

You can search for routes with these characteristics by using the special pipe-syntax, eg |soft|. If you don't wrap the text in pipes, you'll just be searching the other text fields, so soft, with no pipes, would get you a match if the text appeared in the description for example and |soft| will only match against routes that have been marked as soft, and not check the other fields for the text. A continuation of this system which uses the same syntax allows you to search for routes that are voted to be a completely different grade using the following criteria: eg |overgraded|. Note that this is based on votes, so if there are no votes for a route and you include one of these criteria it won't appear, regardless of whether it is in reality over or undergraded. Note also that whilst you can combine these with soft/benchmark/hard, some combinations make no sense.

Regular expressions

Regular expressions, for those that don't know, are a way of describing patterns in strings. They are a very powerful tool for searching and manipulating text, and completely unnecessary in this route search bar. However, if you do want to use them, they are possible by surrounding the expression with forward slashes, eg /chris (?!craggs)/ will match any routes that mention 'chris' but not those that mention 'chris craggs'. Or e2-e3 /crap|damp|horrible/ will return you a list of probably not classic routes. Note that pure-regex queries are not allowed due to the cost of the queries against the database. You should always add any of the other query types mentioned above if you're using a regex.

Negation

Finally, if you precede any text with a minus character you will negate it and require that it is not matched, eg -"mark leach" bat malham.

Advanced Crag Search

Climbs 67
Rocktype Slate

Faces all

View Stats

The Wall Within © mark reeves

Approach notes

Various approaches: For the Khyber Pass go up the long incline beyond Twll Mawr until one level above the winding house. Go L to the edge of the level and drop down scree by a pipe past a dry stone tower then descend ladders. The Khyber Pass is between Twll Mawr and Mordor. For Mordor Mid level continue down further ladders from the Khyber Pass. For Mordor Bottom Level traverse the mid level anti-clockwise almost as far as possible and go down more (shakier) ladders. For the bottom part of Lost World go through a tunnel from about half way round the Mordor mid height level (just after the Tick's Groove Rockfall debris). Heaven Walls are best approached from the other side. Go up the incline to the left of Yellow Wall (above Serengeti), continue past a ruined building then drop down slightly to a broad cutting. Follow this rightwards to an ab point where it overlooks Lost World. Ab or scramble down one level. To reach The Cutting or The Balcony from Heaven Walls go back through the Heaven Walls access cutting from the ab point until a track on the R leads up scree to reach the level above near the entrance of The Cutting. The Balcony is just a little further on overlooking Lost World. To reach The Balcony or Cutting from Bus Stop Car Park follow the G'Day Arete approach to the level then go R a short way to join the last few metres of the previous approach.

Update this Crag

Last updated on 05/Aug/2022

No Access Issues

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Last update: 05/07/2018

Get the BMC RAD app

There are no comments from visitors to this crag.

Add missing Climb
Upload a file of missing climbs

Please select one climbing type above before filtering on grade

Only show routes with a text description (i.e. climbs with a black )

Only show routes in your wishlist

Only show routes in your ticklists

Only show routes in Rockfax

Only show climbs done by selected partners

My Logs

Grade

Stars

Type

Number of Logs