Good climbing and positions. Start at a cleft below the buttress reached via the Climbers' Traverse from The Dress Circle.
1) 18m. Climb up above the narrow gap then move right and follow a crack to a stance on a ledge.
2) 4a, 25m. Climb up to a ledge with grass and traverse left for 4m. Now climb up for 5m and traverse right, under an overhang, to an arete. Climb this to a big ledge and belay.
3) 4a, 18m. Climb up blocks right of the grassy gully, then a corner, to gain the stance at the end of pitch 3 of Eagle's Nest Ordinary.
4) 15m. Pitch 4 of Eagle's Nest Ordinary.
5) 40m. Pitch 5 of Eagle's Nest Ordinary. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Good climbing with a devious and intimidating second pitch. Start from the foot of the buttress in a squeeze chimney (Fat Man's Agony) formed by a large detached flake.
1.) 20m, climb the chimney and up to a ledge, step right and follow a steep crack to a ledge.
2.) 20m, ascend the steep rock above to a wide ledge at 5m. Traverse left for 5m then go straight up for 8m, where a traverse back right below an overhang can be made onto an arete that leads onto good holds to a large ledge.
3.) 18m, the crack on the left followed by the left corner of the buttress are climbed to a junction with Eagle's Nest Ordinary Route.
F Botterill, J de V Hazard Apr/1909.
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