UKC Logbook Description
An excellent climb taking a direct line up the buttress facing across the gully towards Napes Needle. Start at the bottom of the large subsidiary buttress below the right hand end of the Dress Circle.
1.) 25m (5a), the buttress is split by a corner crack. Enter this from the left using a small rib, and climb the corner past two bulges to a slab. Climb up to grass ledges and the top of the pinnacle.
2.) 35m (5b), the wall above is split by a prominent thin crack. Climb the crack to a small ledge, then move up and left to the foot of an obvious groove in the wall above. Enter this and climb it to a junction with the upper section of Eagle's Nest Ridge. (This pitch can be split at the top of the thin crack at 15m).