A very traditional mountain experience. Start under the grassy narrowing chimney between Abbey Buttress and Eagle's Nest Direct.
1) 35m. Scramble up grassy ledges to the chimney and climb it to a ledge.
2) 10m. Move into a wide crack then follow a slab to a stance. Belay in a corner below an overhang and chimney.
3) 10m. Ascend the chimney and then a short rib left to a stance and belay.
4) 15m. Take a chimney on the left, then easy ground to end up below a steep section of rock.
5) 40m. Climb a crack and chimney right of the steep rock to gain the low-angled ridge beyond. Move along the ridge to meet up with the descent line. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A fine, old, traditional route that is now very polished. Start at the bottom of the obvious wide chimney 15m left of the Dress Circle.
1.) 30m, easy rocks lead to the bottom of the chimney, which is climbed either by bridging or by the right wall.
2.) 12m, climb up and right through a crevasse then go up a smooth slab to a belay in the corner,
3.) 12m, the easy chimney above is followed by a slab with polished holds.
4.) 18m, a chimney on the left is followed by easy scrambling up broken rocks.
5.) 35m, following the scratches , scramble along the ridge.
GA Solly, M Schintz Apr/1892.
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