UKC

40m. The bow shaped wall between Ling Chimney and Eagle’s Nest Ridge Direct which gives some sustained climbing on clean, solid, rough rock. Start from a belay by the large pillar block at the bottom of Ling Chimney.

Step right onto the rib leading up rightwards to a triangular overhang. Cross this and continue to a good foot ledge where runners can be placed on the right arete before stepping left and climbing up the wall to join a right slanting crack which then leads up to the eagles nest. From the top of this crack move left again to some thin blind cracks and climb straight up the wall to where the angle eases and leads to the belay in the corner at the top of Eagle’s Nest Ridge direct.

Dave Rogers, Alan Leece 16/Jun/2014.

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Route of Interest
The Bludgeon

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Shepherd’s Crag)

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