Great climbing with an adventurous feel. Start at a small stepped groove just right of the broad rib.
1) 5c, 22m. Climb the groove and, where if fades, move up right onto the wall. Step up and left to gain the rib with difficulty, then move up onto a good ledge and belay.
2) 6a, 35m. From the top of the pinnacle on the right, move up the wall to a bulge (peg out left). Pull over onto the narrow wall and move left to a groove that leads to a spike. Climb a rib and groove on the right to gain The Great Slab. Move left and climb the slab until a traverse can be made leftwards to a large spike and belay. Abseil possible from here.
3) 5b, 25m. Climb the rib and then a dirty slab on the left to a sloping ledge. From the right side of the ledge, move up and then right around the arete. Finish up the wall and groove. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A serious, intricate line through the overhanging wall and bulges left of Tophet Wall. Start at a shallow groove 8m left of Tophet Wall.
1.) 25m (5c), climb the groove, moving right at the top onto the wall and protection. Move up and make a difficult pull left onto the rib, which is followed to a large ledge and pinnacle. Belay at its right hand end.
2.) 32m (6a), climb the steep wall above to a bulge and poor protection, then traverse the hanging slab on the left to a steep groove which is climbed boldly to a good spike and resting place. Step right and climb a rib and groove that lead to good holds on the Great Slab above. Step left and climb the slab until an easy traverse can be made leftwards to a spike belay.
3.) 25m (5b), climb the rib directly above the belay to a ledge on the right, then up the mossy slab on the left to a sloping ledge. Traverse right along the ledge then move up and right round the rib to better holds. Easy climbing up a wall and short groove lead to the top.
P. Whillance, D. Armstrong Jul/1977.
Caff's 100 Ace E5s , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50
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