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84m, 5 pitches. The first route to breech the left side of this buttress. Start below a nose about 3m right of the obvious upstanding block.
1.) 22m (5b), climb the nose direct stepping left into a grassy groove leading to a large sloping ledge.
2.) 12m (4a), descend the groove then climb the crack to a large pedestal. Traverse the narrow ledge leftwards to a belay below a mossy groove.
3.) 15m (5a), climb the groove (doubtful blocks) to the overhang, traverse right across a mossy scoop onto a rib. Move up the rib and then step left back into the groove.
4.) 20m (4c), step right and climb the mossy wall to a ledge, then follow the grassy crack on the right, to a large pedestal belay.
5.) 15 (4b), the crack and groove above.

RJ Birkett and V.Veevers Oct/1940.

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Jim Birkett First Ascents

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chris smith 26 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Awful route very serious and unprotected start and it gets worse from there. Chossy, green and damp not a pleasant route.
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βeta: Awful route very serious and unprotected start and it gets worse from there. Chossy, green and damp not a pleasant route.

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Mithrandir

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Neckband Crag)