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160m, 6 pitches. The route is forever changing, but essentially wade out (at low tide) to the cliff below the col between the first and second pinnacles of the ridge line. Gain this somehow and follow the ridge for approx 6 pitches to the headland. Then have 10 pints. In reality you need to be leading a good deal harder than HVS, and that goes for all members of the party, in fact it may well be XS 5a now. This route does not require the use of ice axes and crampons however a few pegs or a couple of warthogs may be helpful but ascents have been made without. Some very long (16') slings may be a good idea. Previous ascents have used one or two ice screws on the first pitch, the holes of which may or may not still be usable.

FA. M.Fowler, L.Smyth 11/Nov/1984.

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HVS Adventures, Sunny Side Up, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Trad on every UK island, The Road to Shibboleth, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The V.S.+ Ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland, Big Routes, Outragous Positions

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User Date Notes
mike hope 6 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Just be aware the warden is very helpful, so try not to be later than the agreed exit time.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just be aware the warden is very helpful, so try not to be later than the agreed exit time.
masa-alpin 30 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There is a short but fat (20cm in diameter) wooden trunk for an abseil anchor near the corner of the fence. We abseiled from there through a little groove directly below. We rigged the ab rope (as well as the belay rope for the top out) in late afternoon on the previous day after (compulsory) meeting with National Trust officers in Old Battery, and went climbing in the very early morning the following day to catch the low tide. The (90-metre) abseiling is dangerous in the sense loose chalk/flint above would shower on you. Better hire a boat to access the starting point of the climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a short but fat (20cm in diameter) wooden trunk for an abseil anchor near the corner of the fence. We abseiled from there through a little groove directly below. We rigged the ab rope (as well as the belay rope for the top out) in late afternoon on the previous day after (compulsory) meeting with National Trust officers in Old Battery, and went climbing in the very early morning the following day to catch the low tide. The (90-metre) abseiling is dangerous in the sense loose chalk/flint above would shower on you. Better hire a boat to access the starting point of the climb.

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 29
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set