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Climbs 113
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 65m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

The sheltered bays of the New Cuttings are home to some fine technical challenges, often highball, above flat landings. The New Cuttings has been the traditional forcing ground for bouldering in Dorset with Pastoral (f7B), Guy Fawkes (f7C+) and My Chemical Romance (f8A) each holding claim to be the hardest in the county when first ascended by local strong men Oxley, Kimber, and Kennard. The quality of the problems is high and it is often worth investing time picking a long-term project and working it. There are classic ticks throughout the upper grades.

Approach notes

Drive through Easton towards Southwell to the Church Ope car park. Walk back up the road for 50m, and at the tiny Portland Museum, turn right onto Church Ope Road. Follow the road under an arch to a viewpoint - a flat area with some benches directly under Rufus Castle. From here, take the coast path (not the path down steps to Church Ope Cove) to a wide track which leads to the New Cuttings in a couple of minutes. The New Cuttings is the first cliff reached.

An alternative and popular approach is to use the often muddy track to the right of Mermaid House - this leads directly to the coast path.

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset

The Dorset Rockfax covers the superb sport and trad climbing in Portland, Swanage and Lulworth on the Dorset coast. This amazing area is one of the most popular sport climbing areas in the country with a huge number of routes across the grades and great appeal to climbers of all abilities. Thousands of brilliant routes and a relatively friendly climate mean that the area is always busy with climbers.

The 2021 edition of the Dorset Rockfax is the biggest Rockfax to date with 2700 routes on over 600 pages. It is a complete update of previous guides and released in print and digital at the same time. All the crags have been re-photographed using aerial photography and a new set of detailed maps created to make finding and choosing your chosen route even easier than ever.

More info

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)

Out of print:
Dorset (2012)
Rebolted Flowers on a Razor Wire, using p-bolts from the Dorset Bolt Fund. Added an independent lower off and an extra bolt. Will remove old staples very soon.
Wayne.Gaudin - 19/Jun/21
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Climbs at this crag

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