Climbs 116
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 65m a.s.l
Faces SE
Crag features
The sheltered bays of the New Cuttings are home to some fine technical challenges, often highball, above flat landings. The New Cuttings has been the traditional forcing ground for bouldering in Dorset with Pastoral (f7B), Guy Fawkes (f7C+) and My Chemical Romance (f8A) each holding claim to be the hardest in the county when first ascended by local strong men Oxley, Kimber, and Kennard. The quality of the problems is high and it is often worth investing time picking a long-term project and working it. There are classic ticks throughout the upper grades.
Approach notes
Drive through Easton towards Southwell to the Church Ope car park. Walk back up the road for 50m, and at the tiny Portland Museum, turn right onto Church Ope Road. Follow the road under an arch to a viewpoint - a flat area with some benches directly under Rufus Castle. From here, take the coast path (not the path down steps to Church Ope Cove) to a wide track which leads to the New Cuttings in a couple of minutes. The New Cuttings is the first cliff reached.
An alternative and popular approach is to use the often muddy track to the right of Mermaid House - this leads directly to the coast path.
| Rebolted Flowers on a Razor Wire, using p-bolts from the Dorset Bolt Fund. Added an independent lower off and an extra bolt. Will remove old staples very soon. Wayne.Gaudin - 19/Jun/21 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Marti999