Climbs 22
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 2m a.s.l
Faces S

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More weird goings on in Devon... © tomrainbow

Crag features

A sheltered, south-facing suntrap, which can be possible to climb at in the rain. The cliff hosts a mixture of short pitches and monster 30m routes on the Main Cliff. The rock is generally sound but may be dusty if the route hasn't been climbed for a while. Bolting is generous on the whole.

Approach notes

Turn off the A379 just north of Babbacombe at a roundabout and park at the end of Petitor Road. Go through the gate and head left for 200m until some steps are reached. Go down these to where the path flattens and then proceed for a further 50m until a vague path can be seen off to the right. Take this, contour around the valley rim until you are heading away from the cliff. After about 100m, a path down on the left is reached (there is a big tree immediately to the right of the path about 5m down the path). Descend (VERY slippery when wet) to the valley floor (some metal boxes can be seen on the left). The cliff is in front of you. 

I would STRONGLY recommend helmets for belayers at this crag. Bits of the conglomerate rock do come off. We had three occasions belayers had to dive aside. Nothing too big but not stuff you would want to be hit by either (between marbles and golf balls).
Dale Turrell - 25/Jan/21
I would recommend helmets mandatory for belayers at this crag. The conglomerate, although sound on the whole, is prone to bits coming off.
Dale Turrell - 25/Jan/21
Don't expect to onsight at your regular grade. The climbs become much easier with rehearsal.
Kafoozalem - 17/Jun/19
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Climbs at this crag

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