UKC

13m. A prelude to the route Thoozins, adds an extra 4m of bouldery climbing (Font 6A?) and bumps up the grade. From the base of the obvious thin crack running up the wall at the left hand end of the crag, climb the steep wall between that crack and the grass fringe on the left, with use of the crack, good side-pulls at the grass line and anything else that comes to hand, to join Thoozins at its start. Dabbing the grass slope to the side isn’t allowed; them is the rules. Pre-clipping the first bolt is to be recommended.

Note: Perhaps confusingly, both “Hunners An’ Thoozins” and “Lost Track Of Time” start at exactly the same spot on the ground, at the base of the thin crack. Fundamentally, Hunners then follows the left arete and Lost Track follows the thin crack. If you are clipping the bolts left of the crack and using any of the good left hand side-pulls at the grass line then you are climbing Hunners. If you are clipping the bolts right of the crack and haven’t used any side-pulls at the grass line you are climbing Lost Track. In theory, both routes potentially, initially at least, share some holds but in practice, barring perhaps some early foot holds, it will quickly become apparent that each of the lines require a very different approach and different holds to allow progress in the desired direction of travel.

Koon Morris 23/Apr/2023.

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Route of Interest
Forbidden Fruit

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Miracle Crag)

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