Climbs 229
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 18m a.s.l
Faces all
Crag features
The Gogarth experience distilled down into smaller, easily digestible portions. A peaceful and very easily accessible area offering a huge variety of short but adventurous single pitch routes from easy slabs to steep caves, with a particularly wide selection of easier routes (a good alternative to Gogarth) as well as some exciting testpieces. Many routes are non-tidal and face a variety of directions, but a sunny and scenic outlook is generally guaranteed.
Approach notes
Park at The Range carpark and follow the guidebook to the crag of your choice, usually 5-10 mins flat stroll.
Restricted Access
Easy access but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Refer to current guide book (Gogarth South by Ground Up) for indivdual seasonal route access info - however these have been slightly amended for 2018. The dates for each section are different due to the different bird species present :-
Seasonal restrictions apply to the folowing cliffs and routes :
South Stack View - restriction has been reomoved
Botox Zawn - new restriction for "Salute of the Tengu" to "RAF Brown Slab" Feb 1st to June 30th.
One Stack Zawn - Restriction amended and reduced to include "Angel of the West" only (nest is in the cave to the right. Feb 1st to June 30th.
Anvil Porus Area - as in guidebook, All routes restricted, Feb 1st to July 31st (Razorbill Colony)
Ementhal Zawn - as in guidebook, all routes restricted, Feb 1st to July 31st
Housetrap Zawn - as in guidebook, the whole zawn is restricted due to nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th.
Pooh Bay - as in guidebook - Nesting Choughs, Feb 1st to June 30th.
Dichotomous Wall- as in guidebook, nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th.
The Fortress (Dinas) - as in guidebook 2 pairs of Choughs nesting here Feb 1st to June 30th.
| Lovely. Fiend - 19/May/16 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers igrieveuk and RyanOsborne