Upload an image for this crag

Climbs 230
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 18m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

The Gogarth experience distilled down into smaller, easily digestible portions. A peaceful and very easily accessible area offering a huge variety of short but adventurous single pitch routes from easy slabs to steep caves, with a particularly wide selection of easier routes (a good alternative to Gogarth) as well as some exciting testpieces. Many routes are non-tidal and face a variety of directions, but a sunny and scenic outlook is generally guaranteed.

Approach notes

Park at The Range carpark and follow the guidebook to the crag of your choice, usually 5-10 mins flat stroll.

Restricted Access

Ementhal Zawn - birds have Fledged so access can be returned for 2023. 

from 15/06/2023 to 31/07/2023

Easy access  but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting  birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.

Refer to current guide book (Gogarth South by Ground Up) for indivdual seasonal route access info - however these have been slightly amended for 2018. The dates for each section are different due to the different bird species present :-

Seasonal restrictions apply to the following cliffs and routes :

Botox Zawn - restriction for "Salute of the Tengu" to "RAF Brown Slab" Feb 1st to June 30th. 

One Stack Zawn - Restriction amended and reduced to include "Angel of the West" only (nest is in the cave to the right. Feb 1st to June 30th.

Anvil Porus Area - as in guidebook, All routes restricted, Feb 1st to July 31st (Razorbill Colony) 

Housetrap Zawn - as in guidebook, the whole zawn is restricted due to nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th.

Pooh Bay - as in guidebook - Nesting Choughs, Feb 1st to June 30th.

Dichotomous Wall- as in guidebook, nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th. 

The Fortress (Dinas) - as in guidebook  2 pairs of Choughs nesting here Feb 1st to June 30th. 

Fiend - 19/May/16
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers igrieveuk and RyanOsborne

Loading Notifications...