UKC

Access Banned

The owner has not given permission to climb in the quarry and anyone doing so will be trespassing.
A few inconsiderate climbers who were approaching the crag from above, across the landowner's garden and parking in his drive has resulted in the landowner asking the BMC to make clear that he does not give permission for access to the quarry.
The main issues which led to this were:
- Climbers topping out into the gardens at the top of the quarry instead of using the chain lower offs installed to prevent this from becoming an issue.
- Climbers trying to access the top of the quarry by climbing over the landowner's garden fence and walking  through his garden
- Parking in the shared driveway next to the landowner's house at the top of the quarry, meaning that it cannot be used as a turning circle for the frequent large vehicles that drive up this road

The left lip of the Red Rooster boulder. Traverse the lip to a good sloper and tenuous heel and toehook before moving up or just dyno straight for the jug. Either feels around 7C

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Route of Interest
Lady Penelope, SDS

Grade: f7C ***
(Shipley Glen)

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