UKC

Restricted Access

Approach A new approach to the crag has been negotiated with the Farmer, this has the advantages of better parking and a dry walk in. While is slightly longer it avoids an area where Pheasant and Grouse are fed and nest. If you take your dog to the crag please keep it under control. This is important birds nest on this moor and are vulnerable to both disturbance and being eaten. Both can result in dead chicks. The new parking is adjacent to Debdon Pit Cottage, which is visible just west of the Rothbury –Alnwick road (B6341) GR NU073041. Leave the road and follow the track up to the cottage. The parking area is on the right just before the cottage’s enclosure. There is parking for several cars. Do not block the entrance to the cottage, and park in a way that others can park as well. From the parking follow the wall West to a gate in the fence. From here a small diamond shaped rock will be seen on the apparent horizon, about 400m distant. Walk to this. Once at the small cairn, drift slightly right over the gentle ridge and drop down to a track in a shallow valley that leads left and down to the crag. Just over one km, 15min from the parking.

Sit start as for 18. (Stuck in the Middle left (Direct) start), but use small crimps to drift up and right to the upper right hand arĂȘte.

Dan Varian.

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High f7C+
Mid f7C+
Low f7C+
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
Route of Interest
Power is Nothing Without Control

Grade: f7C ***
(Shaftoe Crags)

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