UKC

Restricted Access

Approach A new approach to the crag has been negotiated with the Farmer, this has the advantages of better parking and a dry walk in. While is slightly longer it avoids an area where Pheasant and Grouse are fed and nest. If you take your dog to the crag please keep it under control. This is important birds nest on this moor and are vulnerable to both disturbance and being eaten. Both can result in dead chicks. The new parking is adjacent to Debdon Pit Cottage, which is visible just west of the Rothbury –Alnwick road (B6341) GR NU073041. Leave the road and follow the track up to the cottage. The parking area is on the right just before the cottage’s enclosure. There is parking for several cars. Do not block the entrance to the cottage, and park in a way that others can park as well. From the parking follow the wall West to a gate in the fence. From here a small diamond shaped rock will be seen on the apparent horizon, about 400m distant. Walk to this. Once at the small cairn, drift slightly right over the gentle ridge and drop down to a track in a shallow valley that leads left and down to the crag. Just over one km, 15min from the parking.

The true line of Moby Dick Right (none of this going leftwards up the 6b then topping out right malarkey).

Sit start in the recess and climb directly up the right side of the block using some small crimps on arete, underclings and and nasty slopers. Desperate mantel up and over the right side of block.

Spotter recommended due to nasty heel toe cam - potential ankle breaker.

Cameron E Smith 12/Feb/2023.

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Route of Interest
Gravity Chasm

Grade: f7B ***
(Simonside Sector A)

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