45m, 2 pitches. Requires a non-provocative approach and a double set of cams. An intense adventure up the central black stripe with good climbing but spaced protection and variable rock.
1. 5b 12m. Start as for Lick From A Tigers Tongue or on a rock left of the blowhole, depending on swell. Gain the smooth wall at the black/orange boundary, where fine bold climbing leads to a good foot ledge and large cams above. Belay here or on the ledge just right to prevent rope-drag.
2. 5b 33m. Continue up the orange/black boundary to the overlap and traverse right beneath this on quartz rails. Pull over leftwards (medium cams) onto a block. Step left to avoid dubious blocks then climb boldly to the final slim quartz groove (tiny cam on left). Finish delicately up this.

Matthew Thompson (partial abseil cleaning of top 1/3). Steve Perry. 02/May/2014.


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Top Crack

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Ben Loyal)

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