UKC

370m. In short: 370m, ZS+ (AD+), M3 (obligatory).

https://www.gipfelbuch.ch/gipfelbuch/detail/id/121285/Nordwand/Rigi_Hochflue

The Hochflue north face consists of mainly scree and grass and is not at all tempting. Cold temperatures and snow, make it quite fun and not too difficult a north face to climb near to Zürich. The sensible approach starts in Lauerz and follows signs for the Gätterlipass. Before you reach it, turn left into a forest road and follow the path until you reach the face. Then cut through a trail less walk through the forest for 200m directly to the face.

The face has many flanks and traverses around 45 degrees. In between there are 10m steep ascents in grass and ice gullies. A rope makes sense only to belay climbers. If you like the Chammhalden route on the Säntis, you will have a lot of fun here.

We started in the lower left part of the face and worked our way up to the right until we reached the striking Flue. Once we reached the rock face, we went directly along the rock in the direction of the summit (see topo). This way we avoided the nasty snow flanks below. At a prominent tree (now with absail tat Dec 2021) next to a rock niche we tried to find an exit to the summit ridge. If the grass is frozen this is surely an M5/6 pitch, but they were not. Instead we abseiled a full 60m down to a snowfield and climbed towards the NE ridge without difficulty. At a point it was a grassy ledge. A sliding snow avalanche had cleared it for 100m width leaving tricky frozen turf and scree terrain. Traversing on front points required concentration. The direct ascent to the summit can either be done by an M3+ chimney or by going further right to the T5 ladder.

Descent best done by the T5 route to the Götterlipass.

Possible FA by AACZ and named "Akademikerweg" for the 125th anniversary of AACZ.

Franz F, James O?S, Robert Waddy (AACZ) 18/Dec/2021.

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