Loading Notifications...

Climbs 267
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 30m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

A stunning day in Gower © r_o_b_h2

Crag features

A collection of crags lying high above the sea midway between Thurba Head and Paviland. Not popular enough to have got all the loose rock off - take care. Routes up to 45m.

Approach notes

Approach from Pitton to Thurba Head: from there, take the cliff E for 15min past a wall and stile to an obvious valley leading to the sea - Ram Grove. (40 mins) The Three Sisters are E. Deborahs Overhang is 185m E of the third. Alternatively, from Pilton Green car park (see Paviland) take footpaths over fields: after reaching the stile at the head of the valley, take the first stile in the wall on the R. At the clifftop, follow the path past a stone wall down one, then two valleys. At the second valley mouth is a shattered pinnacle on the R (W): Deborahs Overhang is below this. The comments about dodgy bolts are wrong.

The quickest approach to all areas is to park at Mewslade farm then walk 15 min  L (east) through the farm yard and across fields to Ramsgrove where a low path leads to the other Sisters.

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gower Rock (2012)
Gower & South-East Wales (2004)
South Wales Climbing Wiki

Out of print:
Went to Third Sister and was pleasantly surprised. Good routes for those climbing in the 6s on good rock with very generous bolting. Well worth a visit.
Owen W-G - 02/Sep/13
Visited at the weekend for the first time in 10 years, and was slightly shocked at how overgrown it's become. Does anyone climb here these days, or is everyone too busy clipping bolts?
Simon Caldwell - 28/Aug/13
Debs zawn - Great sport venue.
mikeshewring - 06/Jun/11
This crag has a lot to offer, not least its sheltered location. If the wind is northerly at all, or due west you can escape the breeze and enjoy sunshine from early/mid morning. A little sun trap! The VS routes are all good, and probably better than their star rating suggests. Although the rock at the easier end of the crag looks at first glance to have potential for looseness, this is largely illusory and the routes are well furnished with holds and gear. Be careful with belays at the top - many of the cracks which have been used are between loose/suspect blocks. What is also illusory is the apparently slab-like nature of the crag. When you get on the routes they are much steeper than they look from below.
Rog Wilko - 06/Apr/10
I did a topo of this cliff a few years ago. It is online at http://homepage.ntlworld.com/adrian99/paviland_topo/index.htm
Adrian Jones - 07/Dec/05
A gem of a crag which looks absolutely magnificent upon first acquaintance. Unfortunately its triangular appearance is not due to the perspective effect of looking up at it from the bottom, and all the routes tend to converge a little towards the top. Nonetheless it is an awesome crag and worth several visits for the mid-grade climber. Assassin is one of the best HVSs in the region and a benchmark for the grade, and the Jackal Finish is worth more than its single star. The old pegs are now all completely useless; this does not affect the Junction stance as there is plenty of natural protection, however the E4 that tkaes the main challenge of the roof is almost certainly undergraded as it relies on one of these rust-buckets for protection, and a crucial undercling looks like it may snap off at any moment. Beware that the rock around the area of the overlaps is not frequently visited and thus is dusty, licheny and loose in places.
Alun - 05/Dec/05
Hay ive found a new route on this crag u start in the big cave at the base of sherlob then climb the wall on the right and basicall follow the light ehn u come out onto a ledge and go straight up here to the top ive graded this about HS 4c but will people try the route and tell me what they think of the grade i gave it but just a little tip wear a helmet get back to me guys my email is welshlad16@hotmail.com cheers and happy climbing
will.s - 30/Apr/04
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Beta
Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer goi.ashmore