Description
On an enticing looking obvious arete. This route used to end on a tiny ledge below a menacing block. Then the block found its way to the ground, clearing the way for the route to go full length.
Scamper up the crack to the right and stretch over to pre-clip the first bolt. Back on the ground, start directly under the roof at the bottom of the arete. The hardest crux is still getting past the first bolt, but the extension adds a second crux where the big block used to sit. In between is some fun technical edging and arete pulling. The route ends on a mini-freestanding summit; for a total alpine experience, balance up and raise your arms in victory.
Protection
12 bolts. Step across to anchor bolts about ten feet above and behind the summit. A 60 meter rope reaches the ground.
On an enticing looking obvious arete. This route used to end on a tiny ledge below a menacing block. Then the block found its way to the ground, clearing the way for the route to go full length.
Scamper up the crack to the right and stretch over to pre-clip the first bolt. Back on the ground, start directly under the roof at the bottom of the arete. The hardest crux is still getting past the first bolt, but the extension adds a second crux where the big block used to sit. In between is some fun technical edging and arete pulling. The route ends on a mini-freestanding summit; for a total alpine experience, balance up and raise your arms in victory.
Protection
12 bolts. Step across to anchor bolts about ten feet above and behind the summit. A 60 meter rope reaches the ground.
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Route of Interest
Crepuscular Passions of the Blissfully Spanked
Grade: 5.10a ***
(Frenchman Coulee)