220m, 7 pitches.
This is an amazing line that begins with easier knobbly climbing and then dramatically steepens to overhanging jugs. The climb begins from the main ledge system shortly after a traverse protected by a fixed line. Currently there is a black threaded rope marking the start of the route. The route is well protected, but the climbing is obligatory. Don't be put off by the harder ratings as the pitches felt soft compared to other alpine areas in Switzerland.
P1 (6a+; 45m): This is an incredibly enjoyable way to start your day. Start by climbing a right leaning ramp to a high first bolt. Continue up and belay at a stance.
P2 (6a; 25m): Continue the climbing to a belay at a ledge.
P3 (6b+; 40m): Pull a thin move then continue up on easier ground. Belay at a ledge.
P4 (7a+; 35m): Pull through the chossy roof, unclip the first bolt to reduce drag, and continue trending up and right on flaky rock. At the top, step left to an anchor on a ledge.
P5 (7a; 25m): Traverse left off the ledge and continue climbing up and left for a few bolts until it is possible to trend back right on better rock. Follow bolts to a hanging belay.
There is also a 7b+ variation that goes straight up from the belay and ends at the same anchor. This looks like better rock.
P6 (7b; 40m): The money pitch! Climb the severely overhanging face past several bolts to a belay on a nice ledge. One of the best sport pitches in the alpine on amazing rock.
P7 (7a+; 25m): Step left off the belay and follow bolts through a nice roof. Belay on a nice ledge. This is another fantastic pitch.
Descent: Rap the route with two 50m ropes bypassing the anchor at the top of pitch 4. Bring prusiks and clip bolts on the headwall so you don't get stuck in space. Also, don't forget to clip the ropes to the anchor so you can give your partner a "fireman's belay" while they swing around in space.
Please see Schweiz Extrem Ost for more details.
P1 (6a+; 45m): This is an incredibly enjoyable way to start your day. Start by climbing a right leaning ramp to a high first bolt. Continue up and belay at a stance.
P2 (6a; 25m): Continue the climbing to a belay at a ledge.
P3 (6b+; 40m): Pull a thin move then continue up on easier ground. Belay at a ledge.
P4 (7a+; 35m): Pull through the chossy roof, unclip the first bolt to reduce drag, and continue trending up and right on flaky rock. At the top, step left to an anchor on a ledge.
P5 (7a; 25m): Traverse left off the ledge and continue climbing up and left for a few bolts until it is possible to trend back right on better rock. Follow bolts to a hanging belay.
There is also a 7b+ variation that goes straight up from the belay and ends at the same anchor. This looks like better rock.
P6 (7b; 40m): The money pitch! Climb the severely overhanging face past several bolts to a belay on a nice ledge. One of the best sport pitches in the alpine on amazing rock.
P7 (7a+; 25m): Step left off the belay and follow bolts through a nice roof. Belay on a nice ledge. This is another fantastic pitch.
Descent: Rap the route with two 50m ropes bypassing the anchor at the top of pitch 4. Bring prusiks and clip bolts on the headwall so you don't get stuck in space. Also, don't forget to clip the ropes to the anchor so you can give your partner a "fireman's belay" while they swing around in space.
Please see Schweiz Extrem Ost for more details.
R. Ruhstaller and B. Rathmayr 2012.
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