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1250m.

Rockfax Description
This via ferrata is a true classic of the area and is dedicated to an Italian soldier who was posthumously awarded the Gold Medal for Military Valour for his part in the First World War. It brings together all the aspects which characterise this part of the Dolomites - from historic war tunnels to excellent exposed climbing on fantastic rock, coupled with some truly superb views. The climbing is consistent but never too difficult, and the route is long but never boring. Good weather and an early start are recommended if you want the best shot at a cloud-free summit but, should bad weather prevail, there is an escape route which avoids the summit and leads directly to Rifugio Giussani.
Approach - The usual approach is from Rifugio Dibona slightly southeast of Tofana di Rozes. From Cortina d'Ampezzo, take the SS48 to the west following signs for the 'Falzarego Pass'. Continue through Pocol ignoring the turn off for the passo Giau (SP638 ). After 3km past Pocol, turn right under a wooden height barrier signed 'Parco delle Dolomiti d'Ampezzo'. Follow the road to a fork and turn left. The road deteriorates as it ascends to reach a large car park by Rifugio Dibona. From Rifugio Dibona, follow the vehicle track (path 403 ) towards Rifugio Giussani. On reaching the top of a teleferica (goods cableway), turn left onto path 404 (previously marked as path 442 on some maps), following signs for 'via ferrata Giovanni Lipella'. Continue on path 404, which contours left around the base of the face, passing underneath three aretes. At the next fork, follow signs uphill (right) to reach the entrance to the Galleria del Castelleto.
Enter the tunnels using a combination of ladders, stemples and cable. Continue to reach an opening - it is possible to exit the tunnels here, cutting right across scree ledges, but for the true experience, continue uphill in the tunnels to reach a second opening. Descend stemples (which can be quite tricky, particularly in the case of two-way traffic!) to join the scree ledge. Follow the ledge to reach the start of the ferrata itself. It's worth noting that the tunnels can be avoided entirely, approaching the wire from Forcella Col dei Bos.
VF - The route begins with straightforward climbing up easy ground to reach a ledge. Follow this left, then continue with more interesting and energetic climbing to reach a second ledge. Continue left then vertically to reach a series of chimneys then continue over more ledges to reach a larger ledge, with red graffiti on the rock in front. Here it is possible to escape left, following ledges until joining the descent route to Rifugio Giussani. To continue with the route, follow the arrow right (to 'Cima', meaning summit) to reach a huge amphitheatre of rock. Continue with steep climbing for 30m or so then follow the wire rightwards to reach another ledge. Follow this right then overcome a final steep section to exit the wire and reach the path of the normal route. Steep, slightly loose but straightforward walking leads you to the large and impressive summit cross and some truly spectacular views.
Descent - From the summit, retrace the path, ignoring the exit from the wire, to reach a series of stepped scree ledges that lead down the northeast side. Follow these (a combination of blue and red markers indicate some of the many possible routes) down to Rifugio Giussani. A well-earned beer later, descend path 403 easily back to Rifugio Dibona. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
of ascent, 600m of VF. A long sustained VF leading to the summit of Tofana de Rozes, including a long stretch through a WW1 tunnel.

Ticklists

Big Routes, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
MikePeck88 24 Sep, 2019 -
Tree-normas 24 Sep, 2019 -
Hidden 22 Sep, 2019 -
Hidden 22 Sep, 2019 -
David Clover 16 Sep, 2019 -
Hidden 7 Sep, 2019 -
Tomasaccio ? Sep, 2019 -
with Harry Isitt
with Harry Isitt
Hidden 31 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S
dlsmartins 25 Aug, 2019 -
with Harriet di Francesco
with Harriet di Francesco
Hidden 23 Aug, 2019 -
loungerr 23 Aug, 2019 - Very slippery on a rainy day, which made it much more difficult. Did not go to the end, only until Tre Dita and then walked down to the Rifugio Giusani.
Very slippery on a rainy day, which made it much more difficult. Did not go to the end, only until Tre Dita and then walked down to the Rifugio Giusani.
KaTTabra 3 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S
Hidden ? Aug, 2019 Solo
calvin.giles 21 Jul, 2019 TR dog Via ferratta - used cable for waterfall sections, bailed at half way point.
with Guillermo Christen, Eric Soenens
Via ferratta - used cable for waterfall sections, bailed at half way point.
with Guillermo Christen, Eric Soenens
Aeron Thomas 19 Jul, 2019 -
with LukeT27, James Scarborough
with LukeT27, James Scarborough
Hidden 14 Jul, 2019 -
alastairbegley 13 Jul, 2019 Solo Brilliant expedition up a huge face http://mp-m.uk/toOz9
Brilliant expedition up a huge face http://mp-m.uk/toOz9
gingerbex u 13 Jul, 2019 Solo O/S
Norman_P_W 28 Jun, 2019 - Long day!
with Bob M
Long day!
with Bob M
Bob M u 28 Jun, 2019 - Cracking day out in perfect weather. Spectacular scenery and a superb summit panorama. Snow most of the way from the top of the VF to the summit and down to the Giussani hut. Fortunately the snow was soft as we had walking poles rather than axe and crampons. 8 hr 20 round trip from the Dibona hut, including the recommended beer stop at the Giussani.
Cracking day out in perfect weather. Spectacular scenery and a superb summit panorama. Snow most of the way from the top of the VF to the summit and down to the Giussani hut. Fortunately the snow was soft as we had walking poles rather than axe and crampons. 8 hr 20 round trip from the Dibona hut, including the recommended beer stop at the Giussani.
Robin Clothier 1 Jun, 2019 -
Hidden 27 Sep, 2018 -
sallygal29 12 Sep, 2018 -
michaelped 8 Sep, 2018 -
with devo
with devo
Hidden 8 Sep, 2018 Solo O/S
Chris Manasseh 29 Aug, 2018 - On the rock throughout. Cables as protection only. Magnificent!
On the rock throughout. Cables as protection only. Magnificent!
JezzaCat 16 Aug, 2018 -
katiemowbray 15 Aug, 2018 -
mikecollins 25 Jul, 2018 - With Joey & Joe. Finally made it to the summit this time.
With Joey & Joe. Finally made it to the summit this time.
tsl42 25 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jacob Greenhow, Dammage
with Jacob Greenhow, Dammage
Lauradavies23 25 Jul, 2018 -
yelotango 18 Jul, 2018 Solo
alex toomey 15 Jul, 2018 -
Hidden 12 Jul, 2018 -
benclimbing 22 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Jun, 2018 Solo dnf
Daniela Balslev 3 Jun, 2018 Solo O/S In early June, snow patches from bottom to top, covering completely the wire in some places. Glad I packed ice axe and crampons. Amazing, airy route.
In early June, snow patches from bottom to top, covering completely the wire in some places. Glad I packed ice axe and crampons. Amazing, airy route.
hutchay 22 Sep, 2017 - Did the first half including tunnels then bailed due to icy conditions
Did the first half including tunnels then bailed due to icy conditions
miriamclaire 22 Sep, 2017 -
annastudholme 19 Sep, 2017 -
funkyvin1 17 Sep, 2017 Lead rpt 2nd attempt once last weeks snow had mostly cleared. Still very wet and some sections iced up, and it snowed again while on route but didn't really lead to anything problematic. Great views and a great route, done in good company all lead to a great day out.
2nd attempt once last weeks snow had mostly cleared. Still very wet and some sections iced up, and it snowed again while on route but didn't really lead to anything problematic. Great views and a great route, done in good company all lead to a great day out.
funkyvin1 13 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf Backed off after the tunnels as there was too much snow on the route after yesterdays fresh covering.
Backed off after the tunnels as there was too much snow on the route after yesterdays fresh covering.
bummingham 9 Sep, 2017 Solo A long route. All the snow and ice encountered earlier in the year now gone. The amphitheater at the top was quite atmospheric with the clouds rolling through. Left our bags at the end of the route and did the summit. Not the easiest route finding with long sections of traversing (look out for the 1 foot high walls that mark the way/end of the path). Descent between the end of the cable and the motorway path to the rifugio quite tricky.
with Anta Misina, Julie Taylor, Karlos
A long route. All the snow and ice encountered earlier in the year now gone. The amphitheater at the top was quite atmospheric with the clouds rolling through. Left our bags at the end of the route and did the summit. Not the easiest route finding with long sections of traversing (look out for the 1 foot high walls that mark the way/end of the path). Descent between the end of the cable and the motorway path to the rifugio quite tricky.
with Anta Misina, Julie Taylor, Karlos
Karlos 9 Sep, 2017 - Fantastic route. No snow in tunnels unlike last time. Initial mountain section quite long, although broken by lots of horizontal ledge traversing. Second section truely amazing, climbing up into, through, and then out of the amphitheatre. Weather a bit grotty but stayed reasonably dry. The decent to the rifugio is hard work, an often loose and indistinct path over slabby terrain, requires lots of concentration after a long hard day. Take care.
Fantastic route. No snow in tunnels unlike last time. Initial mountain section quite long, although broken by lots of horizontal ledge traversing. Second section truely amazing, climbing up into, through, and then out of the amphitheatre. Weather a bit grotty but stayed reasonably dry. The decent to the rifugio is hard work, an often loose and indistinct path over slabby terrain, requires lots of concentration after a long hard day. Take care.
mocoso 9 Sep, 2017 - This via ferrata was great, with some really good climbing along the way. I found the last 300m particularly hard, I was exhausted, wind blown, and cold, this section has melt water coming down it and so my fingers quickly became numb sapping my confidence in climbing and so in a couple of parts I just hauled myself up the wire.
This via ferrata was great, with some really good climbing along the way. I found the last 300m particularly hard, I was exhausted, wind blown, and cold, this section has melt water coming down it and so my fingers quickly became numb sapping my confidence in climbing and so in a couple of parts I just hauled myself up the wire.
John Kelly 13 Aug, 2017 - Including summit, just over 6 hrs round tri, car to car from Dibona
with James
Including summit, just over 6 hrs round tri, car to car from Dibona
with James
Lauradavies23 6 Aug, 2017 -
mikecollins 6 Aug, 2017 - Topped out in thunder storm - everything buzzing. Had to lie flat, wait for the strike and then leg it. Hour and a half running down hill in hail. Epic
Topped out in thunder storm - everything buzzing. Had to lie flat, wait for the strike and then leg it. Hour and a half running down hill in hail. Epic
benrhyd 4 Aug, 2017 - Absolutely amazing route! good fun going through the tunnels at the bottom, although it is worth noting that a headtorch is a must! The rest of the route towards the summit is just as fun and takes you almost to the top!
with Adam Haynes
Absolutely amazing route! good fun going through the tunnels at the bottom, although it is worth noting that a headtorch is a must! The rest of the route towards the summit is just as fun and takes you almost to the top!
with Adam Haynes
TomGB 1 Aug, 2017 Solo rpt Back again! Very very long and we were bollocksed by the time we got to the summit (the 2am party finish and forgetting to bring lunch may have contributed to this) Cracking day though! Route still isn't obvious even without the snow, missed the cable a couple of times.
with James Manning
Back again! Very very long and we were bollocksed by the time we got to the summit (the 2am party finish and forgetting to bring lunch may have contributed to this) Cracking day though! Route still isn't obvious even without the snow, missed the cable a couple of times.
with James Manning
Hidden 1 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Aug, 2017 Lead
robertcollier 16 Jul, 2017 Solo O/S 9h round trip. Bring touch for WWI tunnels (which can feel clastrophobic at times). VF is longer than expected, taking 6h with only two escape options. Had amazing weather, not a cloud in the sky!
with Emily Collier
9h round trip. Bring touch for WWI tunnels (which can feel clastrophobic at times). VF is longer than expected, taking 6h with only two escape options. Had amazing weather, not a cloud in the sky!
with Emily Collier
Andyjharper 16 Jul, 2017 Lead
with Iza
with Iza
cdpuk 26 Jun, 2017 - 10h car to car. Last week's heatwave seems to have brought the route in to excellent condition. Barely any snow left, certainly nothing that got in the way. First party on the route having left the car park at about 0745, only overtaken by one faster team. Ticked the cloud-free summit too then plodded back to the car with my dodgy leg, which took about 4h(!). First proper VF so didn't really know what to expect. Soloed most of it and I reckon anyone climbing Severe would be fine on it.
with KLucy
10h car to car. Last week's heatwave seems to have brought the route in to excellent condition. Barely any snow left, certainly nothing that got in the way. First party on the route having left the car park at about 0745, only overtaken by one faster team. Ticked the cloud-free summit too then plodded back to the car with my dodgy leg, which took about 4h(!). First proper VF so didn't really know what to expect. Soloed most of it and I reckon anyone climbing Severe would be fine on it.
with KLucy
buffclimbymatthew 18 Jun, 2017 -
Woodiee 13 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S 9.5hrs car to car... did full route-epic day out sustained but always fun n brilliant position. Route conditions today-;little bit of.snow in tunnel and after the 1.2way escape track, soft snow on the ledge scramble (kicked steps) on the wayto the start of the ampitheatre wire. Didnt summit due to peak covered in snow n only vf kit, long(2hr) and tricky decent across the scree ledges bk to the col refugio- still lots of snow & snow ice all over the face (take crampons for an easy walk down!)
with Ailsa Leslie, jimstanton
9.5hrs car to car... did full route-epic day out sustained but always fun n brilliant position. Route conditions today-;little bit of.snow in tunnel and after the 1.2way escape track, soft snow on the ledge scramble (kicked steps) on the wayto the start of the ampitheatre wire. Didnt summit due to peak covered in snow n only vf kit, long(2hr) and tricky decent across the scree ledges bk to the col refugio- still lots of snow & snow ice all over the face (take crampons for an easy walk down!)
with Ailsa Leslie, jimstanton
Louise Bullock 25 May, 2017 - Too much snow!
Too much snow!
TomGB 25 May, 2017 Solo Got through the tunnels which were heavily iced and slow going. Popped out and the cable was buried in snow with the path lying under a snowfield. Turned back due to being unsure where the route went and probability of more snow higher up. Will be back!
with Karlos, Julie Taylor, Stewart Moody, bummingham
Got through the tunnels which were heavily iced and slow going. Popped out and the cable was buried in snow with the path lying under a snowfield. Turned back due to being unsure where the route went and probability of more snow higher up. Will be back!
with Karlos, Julie Taylor, Stewart Moody, bummingham
bummingham 25 May, 2017 Solo dnf Lots of ice in the tunnels. Too much snow to do the traverse across the scree after the tunnels. Will come back later in the year.
with Naomi Walker, Louise Bullock, Stewart Moodie, Julie Taylor, Vic Cox, Karlos, TomGB
Lots of ice in the tunnels. Too much snow to do the traverse across the scree after the tunnels. Will come back later in the year.
with Naomi Walker, Louise Bullock, Stewart Moodie, Julie Taylor, Vic Cox, Karlos, TomGB
Karlos 25 May, 2017 Solo dnf Lots of snow and ice in the tunnels, nearly blocked at one point. Once out of the tunnels the cable disappeared into a steep snow slope, that would have had to have been crossed to continue. Group call to give up at this point as snow cover over likely to increase as we continued.
with Adam B, Muffin
Lots of snow and ice in the tunnels, nearly blocked at one point. Once out of the tunnels the cable disappeared into a steep snow slope, that would have had to have been crossed to continue. Group call to give up at this point as snow cover over likely to increase as we continued.
with Adam B, Muffin
Hidden 14 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
joeydurkin 10 Sep, 2016 -
with Jen
with Jen
Hidden 5 Sep, 2016 -
Hog Dog 27 Aug, 2016 - Fantastic except for all the loose rock and crowds in the Amphitheatre
Fantastic except for all the loose rock and crowds in the Amphitheatre
gateaublaster 11 Aug, 2016 Solo Icy and snowy.. In August???
Icy and snowy.. In August???
will_lake 9 Aug, 2016 Solo O/S Had the hill to myself once the thunder started and the one other party took the exit option. Great day out
Had the hill to myself once the thunder started and the one other party took the exit option. Great day out
JonnoP 4 Aug, 2016 -
with Emily, rikh, Rachel F
with Emily, rikh, Rachel F
Tmgreenfield ? Aug, 2016 -
with Alex, Laurie, Andy, Mark, Jenny
with Alex, Laurie, Andy, Mark, Jenny
beds74 29 Jul, 2016 Lead Another good day. Stayed at the Giussani hut. Long Via Ferrata, just keeps on going. Summited.
with Dave Williams
Another good day. Stayed at the Giussani hut. Long Via Ferrata, just keeps on going. Summited.
with Dave Williams
PawelP 26 Jul, 2016 Lead Fantastic VF!
Fantastic VF!
Oo 24 Jul, 2016 2nd
with Tim_C7
with Tim_C7
Tim_C7 24 Jul, 2016 Lead
with Oo
with Oo
PilarMartinez 23 Jul, 2016 Solo An amazing day out with Killi, 7 hours Car to Car...
An amazing day out with Killi, 7 hours Car to Car...
Hidden 9 Jul, 2016 -
Nono 7 Jul, 2016 Solo
fuzzysheep01 7 Jul, 2016 Solo O/S Took ledge off left to the Refuge 3/4 way up due to unpreparedness for the amount of snow around higher up.
with Nono
Took ledge off left to the Refuge 3/4 way up due to unpreparedness for the amount of snow around higher up.
with Nono
Sophie Nunn 25 Mar, 2016 - Via Ferrata with the odd bit of cable buried deep in the snow.
with Floris
Via Ferrata with the odd bit of cable buried deep in the snow.
with Floris
andy dunn 27 Sep, 2015 - Icy on the top sections
Icy on the top sections
Claireybloomers 27 Sep, 2015 -
theclarkes 10 Sep, 2015 Solo An amazing via ferrata - long and sustained but never boring. Top section very tricky due to ice but we made it. Will come back for the summit another day as we gave that a miss and descended directly to refugio giussani.
An amazing via ferrata - long and sustained but never boring. Top section very tricky due to ice but we made it. Will come back for the summit another day as we gave that a miss and descended directly to refugio giussani.
Hidden 8 Sep, 2015 -
Hidden 6 Sep, 2015 -
Hidden 6 Sep, 2015 -
Hidden 26 Aug, 2015 -
Giles Eperon 26 Aug, 2015 -
jussiupn 7 Aug, 2015 - Very long and demanding ferrata. It took us 8,5 hours and we left in the last exit before the last climbing. Very nice views and some scary paths with no cable. The climbing itself was ok and not too hard.
with Rauno Hakanen, Junde
Very long and demanding ferrata. It took us 8,5 hours and we left in the last exit before the last climbing. Very nice views and some scary paths with no cable. The climbing itself was ok and not too hard.
with Rauno Hakanen, Junde
Hidden ? Aug, 2015 -
Hidden 22 Jul, 2015 -
trish1968 7 Jul, 2015 Solo dnf only did the brilliant tunnels as rained off
only did the brilliant tunnels as rained off
Hidden 7 Jul, 2015 Solo
timmyhobby 24 Jun, 2015 - Finished the vf and got to within 50m of the summit but turned around as the path was very snowy and around the path was very very loose! Should be more doable in a few weeks
Finished the vf and got to within 50m of the summit but turned around as the path was very snowy and around the path was very very loose! Should be more doable in a few weeks
bentawney7 26 Aug, 2014 - Giovanni Lipella Via Ferrata - from Dibona refuge car park traversed east through via ferrata tunnels up North West face. Summited snowy Tofana de Rozes ridge and decended via Cantore refuge, final section in dark.
Giovanni Lipella Via Ferrata - from Dibona refuge car park traversed east through via ferrata tunnels up North West face. Summited snowy Tofana de Rozes ridge and decended via Cantore refuge, final section in dark.
Tim Harper 18 Jul, 2014 - Amazing route through the WW2 tunnels, and then up the back side of the mountain. Descent was a little bit sketchy as snow was melting underneath our feet.
Amazing route through the WW2 tunnels, and then up the back side of the mountain. Descent was a little bit sketchy as snow was melting underneath our feet.
Hidden 6 Sep, 2013 -
xphoenix0 ? Aug, 2013 Lead
with sam
with sam
Hidden 6 Sep, 2012 -
Hidden 13 Aug, 2012 -
MikeDowsett 8 Jul, 2012 Solo With Ruth, John and John. Finished this time after being bullied by Ruth.
With Ruth, John and John. Finished this time after being bullied by Ruth.
Matt Schwarz 30 Jun, 2012 -
phillipjohnson 30 Jun, 2012 -
Chuck 15 Sep, 2011 -
with Carrie Craig
with Carrie Craig
Jörmungandr 7 Sep, 2011 -
with Anna Dobrowolska, Tina Gough, Justin Thomas
with Anna Dobrowolska, Tina Gough, Justin Thomas
JulianD 7 Sep, 2011 Solo
with Paul B, David H
with Paul B, David H
Theeni ? Sep, 2011 Lead Lead a party of 3. Loose at the top after the cables. Head torch required! Some ice on the higher reaches.
Lead a party of 3. Loose at the top after the cables. Head torch required! Some ice on the higher reaches.
Ellie79 22 Aug, 2011 -
with Andy Odger, Miles Doughty, Katie H
with Andy Odger, Miles Doughty, Katie H
rch3l ? May, 2011 -
jlismore 16 Aug, 2010 Solo
stevelismore 16 Aug, 2010 Solo
Hidden 22 Jul, 2010 -
dancurrie ??, 2010 Lead O/S
with Tom Wallbank
with Tom Wallbank
Hidden 2 Sep, 2009 -
Hidden 3 Aug, 2009 Lead dnf
Hidden ? Aug, 2009 -
Hidden 14 Jul, 2009 -
jcj ??, 2009 -
Hidden 6 Sep, 2008 -
Hidden ? Sep, 2008 -
andrewbooth1000 8 Jul, 2008 -
with Rob & Mark
with Rob & Mark
Hidden 2 Jul, 2008 -
MartinN 4 Sep, 2006 -
checcolazz 15 Jul, 2006 -
with Veccio
with Veccio
Hidden 14 Jul, 2006 -
FrankW 12 Jul, 2006 Solo O/S
with Joe
with Joe
Hidden ? Jul, 2006 -
Elsier ? Jul, 2006 -
with Stuart
with Stuart
MikeDowsett 25 Jun, 2006 Solo Escaped at the break knackered.
with Kris Scheinkonig
Escaped at the break knackered.
with Kris Scheinkonig
riddle ? Jun, 2006 AltLd couldnt sumit due to snow on the ledges and a lack of gear.
with Tom, Tom & Camilla
couldnt sumit due to snow on the ledges and a lack of gear.
with Tom, Tom & Camilla
dominic lee 2 Aug, 2004 Solo 1hr.20...Tagged on to the Olivieri. No torch made the tunnel exciting... no money for a drink at the Refugio either....
1hr.20...Tagged on to the Olivieri. No torch made the tunnel exciting... no money for a drink at the Refugio either....
ElShalimo ? Sep, 2003 -
jamie ward 18 Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
with Tony Buj
with Tony Buj
Chris the Tall 2 Sep, 2002 - Pauls first VF
with Paul, Sam & Colletts
Pauls first VF
with Paul, Sam & Colletts
AG ??, 2001 -
Steve J P ? Jul, 1997 -
with JL, MG
with JL, MG
paulfordski 18 Jul, 1992 Lead O/S
with Mike Wood
with Mike Wood
kingjam ??, 0000 Solo
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Voting
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Votes cast 8
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
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Route of Interest

Via Ferrata Alleghesi

Grade: VF4C ***
(Civetta Group)