A popular route with good exposure and enjoyable climbing. The traverse of pitch 6 is slightly polished but wonderfully airy and satisfying. Being considerably easier than its neighbouring climbs, it does receive more attention but even so it is rarely crowded and is well worth seeking out.
Start below the long 100m corner set in the arete.
1) IV+, 40m. Climb the corner to a solid thread belay.
2) IV, 40m. Continue in the line of the corner to reach a yellow roof on the left. Continue past the possible belay and continue to reach a small ledge. Belay on a peg/thread.
3) V+, 35m. Continue in the corner to where it splits. Take the right-hand corner (the left is equally climbable on good rock but with less fixed gear) to exit onto the top of a pillar. Belay on the upper of the two possible belays.
4) IV-, 40m. Climb a crack up the slab to the left of the arete with numerous possible lines on excellent rock. Belay on threads on top of a small leaning pillar.
5) IV, 45m. Climb 10m above the belay then traverse right on a good ledge towards the arete. Follow a flake on the arete to a small terrace.
6) IV, 30m. Climb a grey crack to reach a pulpit on the arete, below a steep yellow face. From the pulpit ascend 2m immediately right of the arete, then make a 8m traverse right to the base of an overhanging crack. Belay below the crack on an uncomfortable stance.
7) V-, 10m. Climb 2m up the crack to the right of the belay then traverse 4m right. Climb a vertical black face to reach a wide ledge.
8) IV+, 30m. Traverse 2m left then climb a ramp to the right to a chimney. Climb the chimney and exit onto the large scree ledge which splits the pillar at half-height. Belay on threads.
9) II, 35m. Ascend the scree ledge towards the yellow face above. Climb a few metres along the buttress below the face.
10) V-, 30m. Keep the arete on the right and move slightly left. Ascend to the base of a steep crack and climb this to reach a second crack. Follow the flake of the crack then traverse right to the belay.
11) IV+, 25m. Move to the right of the arete, overcoming a couple of bulges. Move back left of the arete to reach a comfortable stance below a corner.
12) IV, 40m. Climb a crack then enter the corner with some technical moves. Exit right to a ledge and follow this a couple of metres to reach the belay.
13) IV+, 40m. Climb to the top of a small pillar on the left, then climb a short wall to a small overhang. Overcome this to reach a slab and climb this rightwards to reach a wide sloping ledge.
14) IV, 50m. Keeping right of the arete, follow a wide flake then exit onto a ramp leading right. Follow this to reach the notch between the face of the second arete and a pillar. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
UIAA grade V (v+ crux)- Amazing route up the obvious exposed arete with not so obvious deviation onto the face at the top of the first half. Pitches are:
IV+ IV V+ IV- IV IV V- IV+ II&V- IV+ IV IV+ IV II There are some bolts for belays and a few old pegs between. Take a slim led rack, 2-3 medium friends, a few medium wires and long slings . Equates to about stiff VS but feels harder because of exposure!
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