UKC

430m, 14 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular route with good exposure and enjoyable climbing. The traverse of pitch 6 is slightly polished but wonderfully airy and satisfying. Being considerably easier than its neighbouring climbs, it does receive more attention but even so it is rarely crowded and is well worth seeking out.
Start below the long 100m corner set in the arete.
1) IV+, 40m. Climb the corner to a solid thread belay.
2) IV, 40m. Continue in the line of the corner to reach a yellow roof on the left. Continue past the possible belay and continue to reach a small ledge. Belay on a peg/thread.
3) V+, 35m. Continue in the corner to where it splits. Take the right-hand corner (the left is equally climbable on good rock but with less fixed gear) to exit onto the top of a pillar. Belay on the upper of the two possible belays.
4) IV-, 40m. Climb a crack up the slab to the left of the arete with numerous possible lines on excellent rock. Belay on threads on top of a small leaning pillar.
5) IV, 45m. Climb 10m above the belay then traverse right on a good ledge towards the arete. Follow a flake on the arete to a small terrace.
6) IV, 30m. Climb a grey crack to reach a pulpit on the arete, below a steep yellow face. From the pulpit ascend 2m immediately right of the arete, then make a 8m traverse right to the base of an overhanging crack. Belay below the crack on an uncomfortable stance.
7) V-, 10m. Climb 2m up the crack to the right of the belay then traverse 4m right. Climb a vertical black face to reach a wide ledge.
8) IV+, 30m. Traverse 2m left then climb a ramp to the right to a chimney. Climb the chimney and exit onto the large scree ledge which splits the pillar at half-height. Belay on threads.
9) II, 35m. Ascend the scree ledge towards the yellow face above. Climb a few metres along the buttress below the face.
10) V-, 30m. Keep the arete on the right and move slightly left. Ascend to the base of a steep crack and climb this to reach a second crack. Follow the flake of the crack then traverse right to the belay.
11) IV+, 25m. Move to the right of the arete, overcoming a couple of bulges. Move back left of the arete to reach a comfortable stance below a corner.
12) IV, 40m. Climb a crack then enter the corner with some technical moves. Exit right to a ledge and follow this a couple of metres to reach the belay.
13) IV+, 40m. Climb to the top of a small pillar on the left, then climb a short wall to a small overhang. Overcome this to reach a slab and climb this rightwards to reach a wide sloping ledge.
14) IV, 50m. Keeping right of the arete, follow a wide flake then exit onto a ramp leading right. Follow this to reach the notch between the face of the second arete and a pillar. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
UIAA grade V (v+ crux)- Amazing route up the obvious exposed arete with not so obvious deviation onto the face at the top of the first half. Pitches are:
IV+ IV V+ IV- IV IV V- IV+ II&V- IV+ IV IV+ IV II There are some bolts for belays and a few old pegs between. Take a slim led rack, 2-3 medium friends, a few medium wires and long slings . Equates to about stiff VS but feels harder because of exposure!

Pompanin/Alvera 04/Aug/1946.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip

Feedback

User Date Notes
dinodinosaur 18 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Route description from rockfax is now pretty much defunct due to the new bolted belays along the route, you can get up it pretty much following rockfax but there are comfortable bolted belay stances which will be missed out. Check around online or ask a local for more information
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Route description from rockfax is now pretty much defunct due to the new bolted belays along the route, you can get up it pretty much following rockfax but there are comfortable bolted belay stances which will be missed out. Check around online or ask a local for more information
badgerjockey 17 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax description is OK apart from p5 (replace “few m” with 10m), p10 (climb 8m up a crack on the left face of the Arete then surmount a bulge on the left, move back right and up into a groove to a peg belay), p11 (the comfortable stance is a 2BB on the left face of the Arete 10m directly above the belay of p10), p12 (go up and around the arete from the 2BB to find the corner), p13 (should say to walk along the flat sloping ledge on the right of the Arete at the top of this pitch to make a natural belay at the end of the ledge below the wide grey flake of p14) and p14 (2BB can be found 8m up beyond the big flake crack before some good wall climbing leads to the ramp. This pitch is technically 60m or possibly more but the finish is a walk so can be moved together). An inset photo of the pillar/notch feature in the book would be helpful. The topo line is out from p2 onwards! Mostly useless.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax description is OK apart from p5 (replace “few m” with 10m), p10 (climb 8m up a crack on the left face of the Arete then surmount a bulge on the left, move back right and up into a groove to a peg belay), p11 (the comfortable stance is a 2BB on the left face of the Arete 10m directly above the belay of p10), p12 (go up and around the arete from the 2BB to find the corner), p13 (should say to walk along the flat sloping ledge on the right of the Arete at the top of this pitch to make a natural belay at the end of the ledge below the wide grey flake of p14) and p14 (2BB can be found 8m up beyond the big flake crack before some good wall climbing leads to the ramp. This pitch is technically 60m or possibly more but the finish is a walk so can be moved together). An inset photo of the pillar/notch feature in the book would be helpful. The topo line is out from p2 onwards! Mostly useless.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

West Face (Gilberti)

Grade: V+ ***
(Civetta Group)
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