Taking a striking line up the southeast face on the Pilasto della Tofana di Rozes, this route is one of the most famous and popular on the mountain. Done free it constitutes a true Dolomites test piece of the seventh grade, and both the length and athletic nature of the climb mean it shouldn't be taken lightly.
Begin below the corner to the right of a pinnacle on a ledge in the middle of the face.
1) V, 40m. Ascend the ledge leftwards until below a corner on the right-hand side of the pinnacle. Climb this to a good stance just below the top.
2) V, 25m. Climb rightwards away from the pinnacle then traverse horizontally right to a stance.
3) VI-, 35m. Continue the traverse for a few metres to reach a prominent crack-line below a yellow roof. Climb this direct, passing the roof on its right, then continue with some stiffer moves passing a second smaller roof on its left.
4) V+, 25m. Continue in the same line, following the grey crack to a small ledge on the right.
5) IV+, 30m. More crack climbing leads to a stance below a small overhang.
6) VI-, 40m. Climb to the bulge, pull through it on the left to a stance on the first ledge. It is possible to escape here, following the ledge right to a gully and three abseils.
7) IV, 40m. Climb the corner directly above the ledge, move right around the hole in the face, then continue up a black slab with two parallel flakes to a good stance below prominent roofs.
8) VII+, 30m. Move left from the belay then climb a yellow crack back right to reach the first roof. Climb this direct with challenging but well-protected climbing then continue to a stance on the right.
9) VI-, 35m. Follow the well-pegged crack-line to a hanging belay below the second roof.
10) VII, 20m. Climb the second roof direct then continue up a short corner to the second ledge. There is a possible bivouac on the right if daylight is running short.
11) VI-, 45m. Climb a corner just right of a hole, then climb to the left of a strenuous overhang known as the 'Schiena di Mulo' (Mule's Back). Overcome this with bridging moves then continue part way up the chimney above.
12) IV, 25m. Continue up the easier upper chimney then move right to a vegetated stance below a corner.
13) V+, 35m. Climb midway up the corner to a pegged stance.
14) V, 20m. Continue up the corner then exit right and continue to a stance in a yellow niche.
15) IV, 25m. Easier climbing leads right then direct to a belay just below and left of a second yellow niche.
16) IV, 40m. Traverse left passing under a yellow cave.
17) III, 30m. Climb right then direct, ignore a corner above and move back left to a ledge with a thread belay.
18) III+, 25m. Continue moving left and belay just left of a bulge above.
19) II, 35m. Move further left still, then follow an easy ridge to the left of the face. Follow this rightwards to belay on threads.
20) III+, 40m. Step right then follow a gully to a spike belay.
21) V-, 40m. Continue following the gully to a good thread in a col below the summit of the pillar.
22) I, 30m. Either follow an easy ridge right for the summit experience, or move left easily to reach a saddle and the descent. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Up the middle of the South face butress 2
UIAA grade VII+
E Constantini. R Appolonio 14/Jul/1944.
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