220m, 7 pitches.
This is a hard but beautiful route which adopts a mixed equipment style. You will need 12 quickdraws and a set of cams #0.3 to #3, with #0.3,#0.4 and #0.75 doubles and plenty of slings. It climbs the left extremity of the large smooth central slab on one of the last unequipped areas of the crag, weaving between roofs and overhangs beneath the summit headwall. From the fourth pitch the rock is continuously excellent and the climbing is sustained in difficulty. The 6th pitch is a very varied and tricky to interpret climbing adventure.
The belays are equipped for descent should it be required. During pitches the 10mm stainless bolts are often spaced.
Start at the bottom of the Gran Diedro where a name plate is fixed to the wall and the first bolts are clearly visible.
1) 6a+ 40m Start at the base of Gran Diedro, a large corner. Follow the corner for a few metres and then move left past a bolt, then climb a wall directly past two overhangs and 4 further bolts to a belay by a tree shared with Jolly Roger.
2) 7a 30m Carefully climb the blocks above the stance to a corner (2 bolts) to reach a ledge and a continuation of the corner which snakes upwards (3 bolts). At the top of the corner traverse right a few metres and then up to a peg belay shared with Gran Diedro.
3) 5c+ 40 Now climb more broken ground to a corner and then avoiding some loose blocks up to a corner, then a rib and the right hand side of a further corner before traversing leftwards out of the corner and up to the next belay. You are now on the hughe hanging slab.
4) 6c 35m Climb the technical slab above protected by 4 bolts to a crack leading right which joins a second crack climbing a slab to a ledge. Belay on left next to a wide crack.
5) 6b+ 30m Climb the crack to reach a bolt where the crack narrows into a thin technical crack, (4bolts). Traverse leftwards delicately to a belay.
6) 7a+ 25m Climb a crack above the belay to traverse right by a bolt to climb a crack into a corner. At the top of this move right, traversing delicately to a vertical crack (peg) on an arete before reaching a roof which is turned on the left by climbing past a bolt up an overhanging dihedral (peg) to a belay.
7) 5b 20m Continue up the corner before climbing right up broken ground to a final corner to the summit ridge.
For topo: https://www.planetmountain.com/rock/dolomiti/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=2459&id_tipologia=38
The belays are equipped for descent should it be required. During pitches the 10mm stainless bolts are often spaced.
Start at the bottom of the Gran Diedro where a name plate is fixed to the wall and the first bolts are clearly visible.
1) 6a+ 40m Start at the base of Gran Diedro, a large corner. Follow the corner for a few metres and then move left past a bolt, then climb a wall directly past two overhangs and 4 further bolts to a belay by a tree shared with Jolly Roger.
2) 7a 30m Carefully climb the blocks above the stance to a corner (2 bolts) to reach a ledge and a continuation of the corner which snakes upwards (3 bolts). At the top of the corner traverse right a few metres and then up to a peg belay shared with Gran Diedro.
3) 5c+ 40 Now climb more broken ground to a corner and then avoiding some loose blocks up to a corner, then a rib and the right hand side of a further corner before traversing leftwards out of the corner and up to the next belay. You are now on the hughe hanging slab.
4) 6c 35m Climb the technical slab above protected by 4 bolts to a crack leading right which joins a second crack climbing a slab to a ledge. Belay on left next to a wide crack.
5) 6b+ 30m Climb the crack to reach a bolt where the crack narrows into a thin technical crack, (4bolts). Traverse leftwards delicately to a belay.
6) 7a+ 25m Climb a crack above the belay to traverse right by a bolt to climb a crack into a corner. At the top of this move right, traversing delicately to a vertical crack (peg) on an arete before reaching a roof which is turned on the left by climbing past a bolt up an overhanging dihedral (peg) to a belay.
7) 5b 20m Continue up the corner before climbing right up broken ground to a final corner to the summit ridge.
For topo: https://www.planetmountain.com/rock/dolomiti/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=2459&id_tipologia=38
Livio Carollo, Elia Bianchi 2019.
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Route of Interest
Farouk
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Cinque Torri)