240m, 5 pitches.
Approach: From the standard crag approach, pass underneath the majority of the crag to reach the far climbers left side of the cliff. The route starts by a rib beneath a tree and follow a dihedral to a roof.
Descent: return to Passo Rolle via the ski piste.
Equipment: There are only 6 pegs on the route, 4 of which are on the belays, therefore take a full trad rack up to #4 Camalot. Some may choose to also take pegs and a hammer.
1) V, 30m Climb a dihedral beneath a larch to reach a roof which you bypass to the left. Continue up the wall above, on the left to avoid grass and vegetation to reach a second dihedral to reach a peg belay.
2) V+ 35m Continue up the corner to reach a narrowing where there is a crux step. Now continue to a ledge where there is a peg belay.
3) V+, VI+, 35m The corner above gradually increases in difficulty to reach a rood which is passed on the left with difficulty. Now continue up the next corner for 10m until you reach a sapling. Traverse right to reach a peg by a tree to belay.
4) V 70m move slightly to the left of the belay without rejoining the dihedral but instead climb its right face until you reach grass. Carry on for a long way until you reach find a grassy saddle. Move 8 meters to the left of this under a black wall. Peg belay.
5) VI- 70 meters: Climb the black wall directly initially moving to the right, looking for the most broken line. Now climb slightly to the left, to reach some grassand yet another another dihedral which you climb to the top and a belay on friends.
Descent: return to Passo Rolle via the ski piste.
Equipment: There are only 6 pegs on the route, 4 of which are on the belays, therefore take a full trad rack up to #4 Camalot. Some may choose to also take pegs and a hammer.
1) V, 30m Climb a dihedral beneath a larch to reach a roof which you bypass to the left. Continue up the wall above, on the left to avoid grass and vegetation to reach a second dihedral to reach a peg belay.
2) V+ 35m Continue up the corner to reach a narrowing where there is a crux step. Now continue to a ledge where there is a peg belay.
3) V+, VI+, 35m The corner above gradually increases in difficulty to reach a rood which is passed on the left with difficulty. Now continue up the next corner for 10m until you reach a sapling. Traverse right to reach a peg by a tree to belay.
4) V 70m move slightly to the left of the belay without rejoining the dihedral but instead climb its right face until you reach grass. Carry on for a long way until you reach find a grassy saddle. Move 8 meters to the left of this under a black wall. Peg belay.
5) VI- 70 meters: Climb the black wall directly initially moving to the right, looking for the most broken line. Now climb slightly to the left, to reach some grassand yet another another dihedral which you climb to the top and a belay on friends.
A. Ceriani, S. Taghipour 14/Nov/2020.
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Route of Interest
La Prima Volta di Martina
Grade: VI+ ***
(Monte Popena Basso)