Climbs 46
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces W

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Jerome Taylor on 'Threadbare' F7c © Finn Clipson

Crag features

Torbryan Quarry is a great little crag with a small set of exquisite sport climbs on its gently overhanging wall. The climbing is well bolted and gives sustained, fingery pitches on flowstone sheets and pockets with the two central lines of Mayday and Thread Flintstone being classics of their grade. The setting is typically rural Devon, narrow lanes, high hedges and a quaint local village blessed with a good pub.

The quarry is tucked away in a sheltered dell and can be a useful retreat in light rain or cool weather once the sun comes around in the afternoon. It can get hot in warm weather, although the base is shaded by trees. It does seep after prolonged spells of wet weather.

Approach notes

From the A38, drive to Newton Abbot and follow signs to Totnes on the A381. After around 3 miles, turn right into the village of Ipplepen. Go through the village and 200m from the village outskirts a car park on the right is reached just as the lane enters woods. Park here. Turn right out of the car park and walk down the road, take the left fork and after 200m a gated track on the left is reached. Go through the gate and the quarry is just up the track on the left.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More Guidebooks:
South Devon (2018)

Out of print:
Dorset (2005)
South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)
Dorset (1994)
A pair of goldfinches nesting near the top of Mayday to be mindful of :-) 14/04/18
alice lloyd - 15/Apr/18
There's a pair of goldfinches nesting near the top of Mayday to be mindful of :-)
alice lloyd - 14/Apr/18
Wasps covering the crag on (10/10/2016).
twill - 11/Oct/16
Loose hanger and nut? Today (3/6/15) found on Boogie on Down, 2nd bolt.
BC - 04/Jun/15
beware broken glass at base of routes and on lower holds
wiwwim - 20/Apr/13
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Climbs at this crag

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