Climbs 46
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 62m a.s.l
Faces W

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Evening sunshine on Threadbare - 7c+, Torbryan © Brian H

Crag features

Torbryan Quarry (Orley Quarry) is a great little crag with a small set of exquisite sport climbs on its gently overhanging wall, and numerous linkups to keep you busy for years. The climbing is well bolted and gives sustained, fingery pitches on flowstone sheets and pockets with the two central lines of Mayday and Thread Flintstone being classics of their grade. The setting is typically rural Devon, narrow lanes, high hedges and a quaint local village blessed with a good pub.

Tucked away in a sheltered dell, it can be a useful retreat in light rain or cool weather once the sun comes around in the afternoon. It can get hot in warm weather, although the base is shaded by trees. Seeps after prolonged spells of wet weather.

Stars have been ommitted for linkups (apart from where they appear in guidebooks), however they almost all contain 2 or 3 star climbing of their parent routes.

Approach notes

From the A38, drive to Newton Abbot and follow signs to Totnes on the A381. After around 3 miles, turn right into the village of Ipplepen. Go through the village and 200m from the village outskirts a car park on the right is reached just as the lane enters woods. Park here. Turn right out of the car park and walk down the road, take the left fork and after 200m a gated track on the left is reached. Go through the gate and the quarry is just up the track on the left.

For the first time visitor, when it says "well bolted" take that to mean the quality of the bolts is impeccable, rather than they are close together. Many of the first bolts are high so unless you're up for a frisson of soloing take a clipstick to enable easy working of routes.
TonyM - 22/May/23
A pair of goldfinches nesting near the top of Mayday to be mindful of :-) 14/04/18
Alice the Camel - 15/Apr/18
There's a pair of goldfinches nesting near the top of Mayday to be mindful of :-)
Alice the Camel - 14/Apr/18
Wasps covering the crag on (10/10/2016).
twill - 11/Oct/16
Loose hanger and nut? Today (3/6/15) found on Boogie on Down, 2nd bolt.
BC - 04/Jun/15
beware broken glass at base of routes and on lower holds
wiwwim - 20/Apr/13
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Climbs at this crag

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