80m, 3 pitches.
A good part of the 1965 ascent has been done exploiting aid techniques, so the difficulties here written are the one reported by Motti and Artero. A free, clean (without piton), ascent would be considerably harder.
P1. Step on a small pillar backed against the slab (V). Then follow the evident fine crack in the center of the big slab, sustained. Belay in the niche at the end of the crack (6b or A1).
P2. Climb a yellow diehdral on the left of the niche with a crack at the bottom (A2). At the end of the diehdral, under a roof, traverse right (A1) and reach a delicate slab (V). Ascend obliquely to find a thin crack that leads to a small roof (A1) and then continue with a good crack up to a small ledge (belay).
P3. Directly above the belay, easier crack systems up to the top (III-IV).
P1. Step on a small pillar backed against the slab (V). Then follow the evident fine crack in the center of the big slab, sustained. Belay in the niche at the end of the crack (6b or A1).
P2. Climb a yellow diehdral on the left of the niche with a crack at the bottom (A2). At the end of the diehdral, under a roof, traverse right (A1) and reach a delicate slab (V). Ascend obliquely to find a thin crack that leads to a small roof (A1) and then continue with a good crack up to a small ledge (belay).
P3. Directly above the belay, easier crack systems up to the top (III-IV).
P. Artero, G. P. Motti Aug/1965.
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Route of Interest
Robinson
Grade: 6b ***
(Vallone di Sea)