UKC Logbook - 'Layback/Dyno combo'

Start low on Layback. Reach right to good crimp, hold swing and gain crimps on Dyno and finish up this.

Over the years, arbitrary rules have been enforced over how high up the arete you can use for both hands and feet, but in practicality due to the varying morphologies of most climbers, this makes little difference to the overall grade, and all ascents are revalidated.

Richie Betts.

Ticklists

The Mission - Torridon Bouldering

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User	Date		Notes
gaz.marshall	13 Mar	Show βeta βeta: A wee historical note: the idea and grading behind the original problem climbed by Rich was that this is a fun eliminate adding a low start to The Dyno (done before Varian did the true direct sitter.) Hands and feet were meant to stay low in the Layback crack and come on to the face as soon as possible (i.e. not hooking the crack level with the crimps on Dyno). Of course, that history has been lost and people now climb it the most logical way, using the crack to get as high as possible. This might make it a bit easier than the original grade. Or not...	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A wee historical note: the idea and grading behind the original problem climbed by Rich was that this is a fun eliminate adding a low start to The Dyno (done before Varian did the true direct sitter.) Hands and feet were meant to stay low in the Layback crack and come on to the face as soon as possible (i.e. not hooking the crack level with the crimps on Dyno). Of course, that history has been lost and people now climb it the most logical way, using the crack to get as high as possible. This might make it a bit easier than the original grade. Or not...
Maximus03	18 Sep, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Don't love the toe hook gate-keeping, probably 7a anyway but whatever
Show beta βeta: Don't love the toe hook gate-keeping, probably 7a anyway but whatever