270m, 8 pitches.
Solo granito is flatly wrong. Seek a more accurate topo from the wonderful and comfortable rifugio Allievi
This route warrents an alpine grade, over a rock grade. The climbing, whilst never desperate (HVS), is often on questionable rock, with limited in situ gear. The pitons that are in place often are old and in poor condition, and serve little more of a purpose than aiding with route finding. The descent and approach are also not all that straightforward, but with proper description are not all that bad either.
((To approach follow a large gulley to the right. Head left up easy ground turning off a short while after the stream, traverse round the base of a face to briefly descend a loose gulley then reascend to the base of the route.)) 2 hours from hut.
The guidebook description in solo granito is flatly wrong, and the description for the descent is pretty limited too. We’ve included a detailed pitch description here.
L1: 30m HS - climb the grooves up to a slab to belay on two pitons, with cord on the lower one (July 2023)
L2: 30m - HVS Step right over a small gully onto a slabby ramp to your right (piton half way up). Climb the ramp to its end till your in two cracks below a small roof. Climb this small bulge - 2 in situ pitons and follow the cracks for a further 5m. Step right to a 3 piton belay under a roof.
L3: 25m - VS. Step left from the belay and follow the corner (some pitons). After following the groove for 10-15m, a piton will be visible to your left. Using good footholds, make an exposed traverse left to a belay beneath a slab next to a corner. 4 pitons, 2 obvious, another very low and a poor piton in the wall to your left.(July 2023)
L4: 30m VS - Follow the corner up to a ledge below a small overhang. Avoid overcoming the overhang directly, and instead step left. Climb straight up from here, aiming for the rightmost of the two corners above you. Belay is at two old pitons beneath a steep groove with a silver piton 5m up and to the right.
L5: 60m HVS - Quest up the groove, initially rather desperate, but well protected, (good piton to the left) till you arrive at a corner. Follow this up. After about 15m pitons start to appear. At about 40m there are 3 good pitons, Belay here.
L6: 20m HS - Continue up the groove on easier more vegetated ground until you reach a spacious ledge on your left, where you reach a belay of 1 spike and 1 ring piton.
L7: VS - Climb the slab and follow the grove on the left to belay on a large ledge of 1 piton and 1 spike. There is 1 piton on route. Do not traverse over the slab into the right most groove.
L8- VS - go straight up the well protected central crack, with an enjoyable section in the middle (British tech 5a), but protected by overhead pitons and cams if you so desire. Head up more bold but easier slab to reach the summit and belay (no in-situ gear).
Descent: head to the summit. From the summit, spot a small cairn, follow this to see the ab anchor (two bolts tat)
The first ab is straight down
The second ab is 50m straight down
The third ab is 50m a little to the right facing in
Fourth ab. From the two bolts. A prominent spur will be visible to your right (facing in to the wall). Make a delicate traversing abseil to this spur (60m ropes recommended to reach a good ledge). From here, a gully should be visible to your right.
Facing outwards, the easy gully is to your left, then curves straight down. There are some signs of traffic. 20 or so metres after curving straight down, there is a ledge to the left with two cairns, the lower of which marks the abseil anchor. Make a 60m rappel to reach an easy ledge just above the approach ledges, from which easy down climbing (diff) for 15m enables you to reach the approach ledges.
This route warrents an alpine grade, over a rock grade. The climbing, whilst never desperate (HVS), is often on questionable rock, with limited in situ gear. The pitons that are in place often are old and in poor condition, and serve little more of a purpose than aiding with route finding. The descent and approach are also not all that straightforward, but with proper description are not all that bad either.
((To approach follow a large gulley to the right. Head left up easy ground turning off a short while after the stream, traverse round the base of a face to briefly descend a loose gulley then reascend to the base of the route.)) 2 hours from hut.
The guidebook description in solo granito is flatly wrong, and the description for the descent is pretty limited too. We’ve included a detailed pitch description here.
L1: 30m HS - climb the grooves up to a slab to belay on two pitons, with cord on the lower one (July 2023)
L2: 30m - HVS Step right over a small gully onto a slabby ramp to your right (piton half way up). Climb the ramp to its end till your in two cracks below a small roof. Climb this small bulge - 2 in situ pitons and follow the cracks for a further 5m. Step right to a 3 piton belay under a roof.
L3: 25m - VS. Step left from the belay and follow the corner (some pitons). After following the groove for 10-15m, a piton will be visible to your left. Using good footholds, make an exposed traverse left to a belay beneath a slab next to a corner. 4 pitons, 2 obvious, another very low and a poor piton in the wall to your left.(July 2023)
L4: 30m VS - Follow the corner up to a ledge below a small overhang. Avoid overcoming the overhang directly, and instead step left. Climb straight up from here, aiming for the rightmost of the two corners above you. Belay is at two old pitons beneath a steep groove with a silver piton 5m up and to the right.
L5: 60m HVS - Quest up the groove, initially rather desperate, but well protected, (good piton to the left) till you arrive at a corner. Follow this up. After about 15m pitons start to appear. At about 40m there are 3 good pitons, Belay here.
L6: 20m HS - Continue up the groove on easier more vegetated ground until you reach a spacious ledge on your left, where you reach a belay of 1 spike and 1 ring piton.
L7: VS - Climb the slab and follow the grove on the left to belay on a large ledge of 1 piton and 1 spike. There is 1 piton on route. Do not traverse over the slab into the right most groove.
L8- VS - go straight up the well protected central crack, with an enjoyable section in the middle (British tech 5a), but protected by overhead pitons and cams if you so desire. Head up more bold but easier slab to reach the summit and belay (no in-situ gear).
Descent: head to the summit. From the summit, spot a small cairn, follow this to see the ab anchor (two bolts tat)
The first ab is straight down
The second ab is 50m straight down
The third ab is 50m a little to the right facing in
Fourth ab. From the two bolts. A prominent spur will be visible to your right (facing in to the wall). Make a delicate traversing abseil to this spur (60m ropes recommended to reach a good ledge). From here, a gully should be visible to your right.
Facing outwards, the easy gully is to your left, then curves straight down. There are some signs of traffic. 20 or so metres after curving straight down, there is a ledge to the left with two cairns, the lower of which marks the abseil anchor. Make a 60m rappel to reach an easy ledge just above the approach ledges, from which easy down climbing (diff) for 15m enables you to reach the approach ledges.
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