A popular route that weaves its way up the centre of Cima Piccolissima. Originally the rock was quite loose but, thanks to the numerous ascents, this is no longer the case. A technical and delicate climb, ideal for those working up to Comici-Dimai on Cima Grande because the difficulties are much the same, only this route is shorter.
Start 20m up the descent gully, traversing right to reach the base of a polished corner. Access this direct or from the left.
1) V-, 25m. Climb the corner above, trending left past a series of overhangs.
2) V-, 20m. Climb the wall above to enter a steep vertical corner-crack. Follow this for around 12m then move right to a comfortable ledge below the steep pale walls above.
3) VI, 45m. Move further right to climb a yellow ramp. Move right around an overhang and climb a short technical crack. Climb the wall above direct, or step left (easier but possible intermediate belay recommended), to climb a vague corner and a crack.
4) VII-, 30m. Continue to the overhang above, pull through this and continue up an exposed slab. Climb a technical crack to reach the stance by a detached flake.
5) V, 30m. Climb an overhanging corner-crack on excellent holds to reach a horizontal break in the rock. From here, make a 20m traverse left to reach the base of a pillar.
6) V-, 30m. Climb the corner formed by the pillar with some good bridging moves to reach the top of the pillar.
7) V+, 40m. Step down left then climb a crack following the line of the arete, trending right, to reach a small ledge.
8) V+, 30m. Climb direct from the ledge to tackle an overhanging yellow crack. Continue to the right of a flake then move back left to belay on a good ledge.
9) III, 30m. Traverse left easily along the ledge to belay below a prominent chimney © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An excellent steep route on the sunny south side providing a good alternative to some of the longer north faces.
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